Go back to Mexico.
The Spray
Shirley hiking in to El Potrero Chico on our first day there. The front side walls dominate the view (Nov. 2011).
Until late November of 2011, our combined experience with Mexico consisted of my one pre-marital road trip with two friends in the mid 90s. The three of us took a 15-year old Oldsmobile and drove it from New York City to Acapulco (a 3K mile stretch) in a nearly non-stop push of 55 hours. The car had some overheating issues that were kept in check by blasting the heater full bore while flying down the freeway at 85mph with the windows rolled down. In January, this meant that one was comfortable but only in the average sense. I don’t recall much else about that trip. Ancient history and a different universe for all, including – I think – Mexico .
.
The beautifully featured limestone on pitch 4 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
Shirley and I have known that we’d eventually get around to going to the famous El Potrero Chico but had until now come up with excuses to postpone on the execution. The stream of news regarding the violent war with/among the cartels was our latest excuse (and in my mind, a pretty solid one). I think what finally did us in was reading Chris and Kristin Winter’s blog entry on their first trip to EPC. “Holy shit this looks great!” was our reaction. Plane tickets were purchased before the coolaid effects wore off and Magic Ed was contacted. Not only did Ed put our (my…Shirley is blessed with a more f-it attitude) minds at ease, but he made all the arrangements painlessly for us. When we finally arrived at the Monterrey airport, Ed and Tami were there to pick us up and to drive us to our own rented house. For the price of a shitty NFS campground by Sedona ($30/night), we had a very comfy casita all to ourselves.
.
The typical post-climb routine...pick up two 1 liter bottles of Carta Blanca beer on the hike back to the casita after a good day of climbing (Nov. 2011)
Those seven days we spent in EPC seem like a happy blur of fun moves on gorgeous limestone hundreds of feet above the deck interrupted only by drinking beer, making guac, and enjoying the company of other climbers over dinners. Unlike our last bolt clipping outing, the climbing in Potrero was low stress (no 5.10 moves 20 feet above bolts) with a seemingly endless supply of sub-7a (as the Euro’s say) multi-pitch routes. With only a handful of climbers (Mexican, Canadian, Brazilian, Italian, American etc…), there was no crowding. We had our first pick routes all to ourselves despite our less than alpine starts. Seven days, seven wonderful routes and a big bucket of ideas for future trips. Some day-by-day and route spray follows.
1. Yankee Clipper (11 of 14P, 5.10b)
Shirley casting off on the first pitch of climbing in El Potrero. This is the start of Yankee Clipper route on the Jungle Wall. She'd combine pitches 1 and 2 (Nov. 2011).
On the morning of our first day, we hiked into the Potrero without a solid plan. Jungle Wall was close to the road and as we wanted something longer than Jungle Mountaineering (4 pitches) and easier than Space Boyz (5.10d), we started up Yankee Clipper (14ish pitch 5.10b) with the idea of quitting before the 5.12 15th pitch. In retrospect, this was not the brightest idea as we started late in the morning (10ish) on what would turn out to be the hottest day of our stay. We swung leads linking most pitches into ~60 meter couples and were cooking nicely by pitch 5 or 6. By the time we hit the vegetated bowl on pitch 9, we were becoming well done. Above the bowl, any hint of a breeze seemed to die away and we were climbing in a limestone oven. Topping out on the 11th pitch we felt cooked and bailed (one more long pitch would’ve put us – reportedly – at the “summit” register). Oh well. We needed to be resuscitated with 2 ice cold, liter sized Carta Blancas.
2. Dope Ninja (6P, 510b)
Shirley following the spectacular traverse pitch (#4) of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
On day 2, we headed in the direction of the Mota Wall but the view of the sunlit face scared us off (Yankee Fryer was still fresh in our minds) and we ended up on Dope Ninja– slightly less sunny and just around the corner. I led pitch 1 and Shirley started up pitch 2 but at 5’3” had some issues reaching a critical pocket at the start of a “headwall” section of the pitch. As we were doing the traverse pitch (#4), two military trucks full of soldiers did a slow drive through the canyon below. We topped out and enjoyed the views from the top of the gendarme. That evening we headed over to Posada for dinner where we met a group of fellow Portland climbers (as well as a couple we had met a year before in Red Rocks…small world and of course Frank, who’s an EPC regular). The beer and the climbing conversation flowed into the night. Indeed, this would become our routine for the rest of the week: climb, drink, eat dinner and occupy Posada along with fellow PDX-ers.
3. Estrellita (12P, 5.10b)
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 of Estrellita...somewhat creepy looking (but solid feeling) blocks are on the right (Nov. 2011).
On the third day, we headed for the Estrellitaroute, hailed as one of the easiest multi-pitch outings in Potrero. Fun stuff! The only thing better than the crack pitches above the Aztec Lounge (a vegetated bowl three pitches up), was the route summit with its one lone palm tree. Took photos, lounged around, and slowly rapped our way down into Los Lobos Canyon seeing that the military had set up a checkpoint at the entrance to the Potrero. All agree that the presence of the soldiers is reassuring and a great benefit to the area but we figured that a combination of our imperfect Spanish and the heavy artillery might be something to avoid (if it could be helped). By the time we were hiking out, the soldiers had packed up and left.
4. Pancho Villa Rides Again (5P, 5.10c)
...and pitch 3 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011)
Back to Mota Wall on day four. The start of Pancho Villa Rides Againlooked good and so we got on it. It turned out to be our favorite route of the outing. Small package but super fun climbing. We might however be biased as this is a crack route. Every pitch offered some fun moves and at least some crack sections. We got back early and since we were low on essentials (cash), we hiked to Hidalgo in search of an ATM & a supermarket.
5. Space Boyz (11P, 5.10d)
Shirley topping out on the crux 6th pitch (10d) of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
With the memories of being cooked alive on the Yankee Grill fading fast, we headed back to the Jungle Wall to do the (modern day American classic line) Space Boyz. We combined the easier four pitches into two and swapped leads most the way. Shirley got to lead the first 5.10 pitch of the day, #5 and reportedly only 5.10a…though I thought it seemed harder. The 5.10d pitch was a spectacular dihedral and the great climbing continued above on a prow-like formation all the way to the gendarme summit (I guess the last pitch was not that spectacular but not too bad especially since it was Shirley’s lead). A great route! That night we had the pleasure of Ed and Tami’s company for dinner.
6. Satori (7P, 5.10c)
Shirley leading pitch 3 of Satori. The route follows the pillar on the right side of photo for another 4 pitches to the top of the fin (Nov. 2011).
7. Jungle Mountaineering (4P, 5.10a)
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Jungle Mountaineering. The "summit" of Space Boyz is visible above (Nov. 2011).
The End
An artist's view of El Potrero Chico - drinking interrupted by some sport climbing...those are 32oz (~1L) bottles (Nov. 2011).
Photos
Roadside scenery outside of Hidalgo on our way to El Potrero Chico (Nov. 2011).
Shirley, Tami, and Ed checking out the drive-through liquor store in Hidalgo (Nov. 2011).
Shirley hiking in to El Potrero Chico on our first day there. The front side walls dominate the view (Nov. 2011).
Yankee Clipper
Shirley casting off on the first pitch of climbing in El Potrero. This is the start of Yankee Clipper route on the Jungle Wall. She'd combine pitches 1 and 2 (Nov. 2011).
Shirley high on our first pitch of Yankee Clipper (Nov. 2011).
Following the combined pitches 1 and 2 of Yankee Clipper...note the slightly damaged pavilions below (rockfall; Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on pitch 4 of Yankee Clipper (Nov. 2011).
Shirley starting the lead of pitch 5 of Yankee Clipper (Nov. 2011).
Shirley on pitch 11 of Yankee Clipper ...our highpoint (Nov. 2011).
The subtle beauty of El Potrero Chico (Nov. 2011).
The typical post-climb routine...pick up two 1 liter bottles of Carta Blanca beer on the hike back to the casita after a good day of climbing (Nov. 2011)
Dope Ninja
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Dope Ninja (5.10b; Nov. 2011).
Shirley on the crux moves of Dope Ninja (5.10b) - this is pitch 2 (Nov. 2011).
Lower portions of the Jungle Wall as seen from Dope Ninja. Leftmost streak is Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a), next is Yankee Clipper (5.10b or 5.12), followed by the lower 4 pitches of Space Boyz (5.10d) and Black Cat Bone (5.10d) is on the far right (Nov. 2011).
Leading pitch 3 of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
Shirley belaying me on pitch 3 of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of Dope Ninja...think I screwed up here and we ended up on some boltless (easy though) variation (Nov. 2011).
Shirley following the spectacular traverse pitch (#4) of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
Mexican army patrolling the El Potrero Chico. These were daily events and the view here is from high up on Dope Ninja route (Nov. 2011).
Shirley nearing the end of the scenic traverse on pitch 4 of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
Leading the final (6th) pitch of Dope Ninja to the summit of a ridge gendarme (Nov. 2011).
Shirley in front of our casita in El Potrero Chico (Nov. 2011).
Estrellita
An unknown climber on the summit of Estrellita route as seen from the top of Dope Ninja (Nov. 2011).
Starting up pitch 1 (combined with 2) of Estrellita (5.10b; Nov. 2011).
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 of Estrellita...somewhat creepy looking (but solid feeling) blocks are on the right (Nov. 2011).
Starting the traverse on pitch four of Estrellita. Virgin Canyon is below and on the left (Nov. 2011).
Looking towards The Spires from the top of the fourth pitch of Estrellita. Jungle Wall (home to Space Boyz etc.) is on the right (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading the 8th pitch on Estrellita (5.10b; Nov. 2011).
Happy Shirley atop the 8th pitch of Estrellita with The Spires and The Jungle Wall in the background (Nov. 2011).
Shirley nearing the top of the 10th pitch of Estrellita - a nice, wide-ish crack in a dihedral (Nov. 2011).
Topping out on the 12th and final pitch of Estrellita. Virgin Canyon is below on the left and so is the pool complex (Nov. 2011).
Shirley on the pretty summit of Estrellita with its lone palm tree (Nov. 2011).
Yours truly atop the ridge after our Estrellita climb (Nov. 2011).
The third favorite activity (yes, right behind drinking & climbing) during our stay in El Potrero Chico (Nov. 2011).
Pancho Villa Rides Again
Another day, another 7 minute approach to the climbing at the Potrero (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on the very fun pitch 1 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (5.10c) on the Mota Wall (Nov. 2011).
Starting the lead of pitch 2 of Pancho Villa Rides Again on the Mota Wall (Nov. 2011).
Timewave Zero buttress as seen from Pancho Villa Rides Again route (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on pitch 2 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
A nice, clean thin hand splitter on pitch 3 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
...and pitch 3 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011)
Shirley starting up pitch 4 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
The beautifully featured limestone on pitch 4 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
Topping out on pitch 4 of Pancho Villa Rides Again (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on Pancho Villa Rides Again route (top of the 5th pitch; Nov. 2011).
Probably our favorite route of the trip (Nov. 2011).
Space Boyz
The 2000 foot cliffs on the front side of the El Potrero Chico. View is from our rental house (Nov. 2011).
Leading pitch 3 (combined with 4) of Space Boyz on the lower "apron" of The Jungle Wall (Nov. 2011).
Shirley casting off on pitch 5 of Space Boyz (5.10a; Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 5 of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Following the fifth pitch (5.10a) of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Shirley starting up the crux (#6) pith of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Upper dihedral of Space Boyz pitch 6 (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on the crux 6th pitch (10d) of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 8 of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Shirley on pitch 10 (combined with 9) of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
Following the chimney-like pitch #11 of Space Boyz (Nov. 2011).
The summit of Space Boyz with Hidalgo in the background (Nov. 2011).
An artist's view of El Potrero Chico - drinking interrupted by some sport climbing...those are 32oz (~1L) bottles (Nov. 2011).
Satori
Shirley hiking up to the start of Satori route with The Dunce (El Bobo) in the background (Nov. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 3 of Satori. The route follows the pillar on the right side of photo for another 4 pitches to the top of the fin (Nov. 2011).
Yours truly following the pretty pitch 3 of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Starting up pitch 4 of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 5 of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Shirley starting up the crux pitch (#6) of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Shirley topping out on the crux 6th pitch of Satori. My blue shirt is barely visible at the base of route (Nov. 2011).
Shirley on the final (7th) pitch of Satori (Nov. 2011).
Top of the Satori route - you realize you've been climbing a thin fin of limestone as you top out (Nov. 2011).
Jungle Mountaineering
Shirley leading pitch 1 of Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a) on our final day at the Potrero (Nov. 2011).
Following the first pitch of Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a). Note the rockfall damage on the latrine building below (Nov. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Jungle Mountaineering. The "summit" of Space Boyz is visible above (Nov. 2011).
Estrellita route (how many climbers can you count?) as seen from Jungle Mountaineering route on Jungle Wall (Nov. 2011).
Following pitch 2 (or was it 3?) of Jungle Mountaineering...I think it's pitch 1 (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading either pitch 2 or 3 of Jungle Mountaineering (Nov. 2011).
ROCA!!! Topping out on pitch 3 of Jungle Mountaineering with the evidence of rockfall damage visible below (Nov. 2011).
Dope Ninja route follows this ridge starting from the lower left hand side and topping out a gendarme (Nov. 2011).
Shirley leading the final (4th) and crux pitch (5.10a) of Jungle Mountaineering (Nov. 2011).
Coiling the ropes on our final day at the beautiful El Potrero Chico...time to go home (Nov. 2011).
Go back to Mexico.