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The following day had the best forecast of the entire week on Anglesey and so we woke up early (to beat the crowds) in hopes of climbing the ultra classic A Dream Of White Horses (3-pitches, HVS 5a).
This one requires a ~half hour approach followed by what seemed to us as an extremely exposed and steep hike down to the abseil point (in fact, the rope came out). We fixed our static and rapped into the dark, cold depths of Wen Zawn stopping on a ledge system that’s roughly atop a very wet looking pitch 1 of Dream. Actually, we rapped to the base of a route called Wen and so that’s what we climbed for the opening pitch joining Dream for its upper two pitches. Those were indeed spectacular: a rising traverse along a nice flake followed by the classic – improbable looking – and perfectly horizontal traverse exit pitch. Such a unique position and great climbing! The only crowds we saw were a trio of old school climbers rapping into the Zawn as we were finishing our climb.
Photos
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