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The Start

So there we were – sitting around the kitchen table shaking our heads in a merry disbelief. Ahead of us lay a stretch of free time we’ve never faced before: 8 weeks! It was finally here. We had spent the last few months prior trying to decide how exactly to burn it – use it for going back to some familiar places around the western United States and trying to dispatch some of our bigger goals or try something different? Though initially leaning toward the former, in the end (and with the suggestion of our friends) we went for the latter. Yes Sir! A two-month circuit of stamp-collecting conventions it was going to be!!

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Our climbing trip started with a whole shitload of driving (two shitloads in fact!) and little climbing. Drove down to California only to fail. Drove back up to Portland. Picked up our dog Blondie and spent the next three days driving the 3000 miles to the east coast where Blondie would spend the summer with my parents. A week into our trip and the only thing we really succeeded on was climbing my parents’ roof (to fix a leaky tile) – a project that I initially felt would go at 5.7 R (slab) but the roof material proved too slippery and the challenge was eventually solved A0-style ala FA of Lost Arrow Spire.

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With this boost in our climbing confidence (not to mention a sealed leak) we set off for Europe via Newark, Amsterdam, and eventually Venice where we spent 3 days sightseeing while being squeezed to death by the crowds. Finally we picked up our tiny rental car and my brief Euro-driving career began and ended in the rental parking lot where I stole on take off and endured much verbal and sign language abuse from an irate Italian driver. From here on, Shirley did all the driving in Europe with her superior manual transmission skills. Later that day we were in Castelrotto planning our first day of Dolomite climbing.

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Note: My Dolomite route ratings & pitch counts are quoted from:
Classic Rock Climbs in the Dolomites by Anette Kohler & Norbert Memmel. ISBN-10: 1898573344; ISBN-13: 978-1898573340.

The Climbs

• Part 1: Cinque Torri
• Part 2: Vinatzer (V+ 13P) on Third Sella Tower
• Part 3: Trenker (V- 6P) on First Sella Tower
• Part 4: Tissi (VI- 15P) on Torre Venezia
• Part 5: Pillar Rib (VI- 18) on Tofana Di Rozes
• Part 6: Spigolo Giallo (VI 14P) on Cima Piccola
• Part 7: Comici (VII- 16P) on Cima Grande Di Lavaredo
• Part 8: Steger (VI- 18P) on Cima Catinaccio

Photos

Go to Part 1.
Go to Euro Sampler – Meteora page.
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