Dolomites – Part 5

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08/29/08. Pillar Rib (VI-, 18P) on Tofana Di Rozes’ South Face Buttress 2

Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pillar Rib.
We wanted to climb one of Tofana’s handsome south face buttress routes since laying our eyes on it from Cinque Torri on day one. But of course, after our Torre Venezia climb more shitty weather rolled through the Dolomites. As the storms were clearing, I got the worst case of indigestion (the cheese-rich diet I guess) that kept me bed-ridden with labor pains for an additional day. As the storms and indigested cheese cleared up, we headed out to Rifugio DiBona and climbed Tofana’s 18-pitch Pillar Rib (a.k.a. Costantini/Ghedina) the following day. Fun climbing with a spectacular traverse pitch midway up the route. Most amazing part was perhaps the fact that for the first time the top of The Buttress was not enshrouded in thick clouds. In fact we had perfect weather and the only “crowding” on the route was a pair of friendly Austrians behind us. Nice top-out on the rib and a mostly straightforward descent.

Photos

Sella Pass
Sella Pass with First Sella on right and Third Sella on left. I think we got crowded off of something on Second Sella (August 2008).
Sella Pass
A closer look at the Third Sella Tower (Aug. 2008).
Sella Pass
Langkofel Massif (Aug. 2008).
Dolomites
In a cable car on the way up to Alpe di Susi (Aug. 2008).
Dolomites
A picnic on Alpe di Susi (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
Tofana Di Rozes (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
South Buttress 2 (just left of center) with its classic Pillar Rib a.k.a Constantini-Ghedina route (August 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
Rifugio Dibona and Tofana Di Rozes (August 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
South face of Tofana Di Rozes. The 18-pitch Costantini/Ghedina route (a.k.a. Pillar Rib) climbs the second prominent buttress from the right staying close to the arete (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
In the Rifugio Dibona (August 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes
Buttress Two of the south face of Tofana Di Rozes. View is from our morning approach to the start of the Pillar Rib route (starts near the left edge of the buttress; Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Starting up the 18-pitch Costantini/Ghedina (a.k.a. Pillar Rib) route on Tofana’s Buttress Two (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 (we combined 1 and 2) of Costantini/Ghedina. An Austrian team is below us (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Leading pitch 3 of Pillar Rib with the rest of Buttress Two towering above (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on pitch 3 traverse on the Pillar Rib route on the Second Buttress. Third Buttress is in the background (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
More of Shirley on the third pitch of Pillar Rib (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Leading pitch 4 of Pillar Rib – up the dihedral before cutting back left onto the face above (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Leading pitch 5 (which we combined with the previous one) of Pillar Rib (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
A closer look at pitch 5 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on pitch 5 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
More traversing (pitch 5; Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley nearing the top of the 5th pitch of the Pillar Rib on Tofana (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Starting pitch 6 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley topping out on pitch 6 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Looking back towards the Cinque Torri group across the valley (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Starting the lead of pitch 7 (first VI- pitch) of the Pillar Rib (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Higher on the same pitch. The next pitch traverses sharply left from there (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
A closer look at pitch 7 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pitch 7 top out (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Leading the super fun traverse pitch (#8) on the Pillar Rib (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
More pitch 8 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on the 8th pitch traverse (VI-) on the Pillar Rib route of Tofana Di Rozes (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
More of the same cool traverse pitch (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Leading on one of the upper pitches (9th probably) of the Pillar Rib (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on pitch 9 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on 9th pitch of Pillar Rib. This is where the route changes sides on the giant arete (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Topping out on pitch 10 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
I think this is pitch 12-ish (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on pitch 12 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pitch 13 I think (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pitch 13 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Topping out on pitch 14 (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Unknown climbers high on the Third Pillar of Tofana di Rozes (I think! August 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley at the 14th belay (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pitch 15ish (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Pitch 16ish (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Nearing the top of the route (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Views from high on the route (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley arriving at the top (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
At the top of the route (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley on the summit of Buttress Two of Tofana Di Rozes (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley starting the descent from the top of Buttress Two on Tofana (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Hiking down (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Some more views (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
A nice solid bridge we encountered on the hike down …Shirley said it was solid & that I should go first (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
The descent trail (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Downward bound (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Shirley hiking down (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Old Rifugio Guissani (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
A little break (Aug. 2008).
Tofana Di Rozes - Pillar Rib
Almost beer time (Aug. 2008).

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