Go back to Climbing.A small sampling of what Mexico has to offer from a few quick trips to date. After our 2013 road trip, we’re itching to explore more of this beautiful country. So far, obviously Potrero is the favorite (highest density of multi-pitch climbs) but Pena de Bernal is not far behind (fewer routes but the place is indeed “magico”). Still fascinated by climbing around Mineral del Chico but climbing beta is hard to come by.
El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)
NOT El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)
Pena de Bernal (Queretaro)
Parque Nacional El Chico (Hidalgo)
Loreto (Baja California Sur)
There are other resources online…but you can figure those out for yourself.
El Potrero Favorites
Over the course of our five visits to El Potrero Chico, we have climbed the majority of the routes that were within our ability and of interest to us (don’t care about single pitch stuff). Sure, there are always loose ends to tie up and in a pinch I’m sure we’d find a handful that would justify another easy climbing holiday in the sunny Nuevo Leon. And of course there’s always the possibility of new development. However, reflecting back on all the fun times, we think that these are our favorites to date:
Agua De Coco – fun pocket-y climbing with nice views of the Jungle Wall across the canyon. There’s even a palm tree belay station (don’t worry – it’s all bolted of course). A good way to burn a half day.
Snott Girlz – very good climbing including some crack sections up high. A route that tops out on the ridge gendarme and offers enticing views of Time Wave Zero Buttress. Pitch 5 opener is quite photogenic – make sure the belayer is the one with the camera.
Off The Couch – move per move, the front side seems to have the sort of face climbing we enjoy the most – not overly steep but quite crimpy (ala Smith). While all three routes that we’ve done there top out on the same scenic ridge (Scariest Ride In The Park traverse), this was our favorite. Man I wish we were good enough for the real gem of the front side.
Space Boyz – is the original classic line of EPC (a modern North American favorite) and without a doubt it is a great line! A nice mouthful of a day even if the rock is getting polished in places.
Black Cat Bone – good variety: from crimpy faces to a roof pull to a (pretty challenging) chimney up high. Don’t let the grassy break in the lower third deter you. The position is quite nice and it does not get the crowds like its next door neighbor (SB).
Timewave Zero – the moderate classic of the area (well, if you aid the 5.12 pitch like we did). Despite the complaints you read online (monotonous, not sustained etc), we found the climbing to be very good and the position – high above the interior of the Potrero – to be spectacular. One of the modern classics of North America.
Go back to Climbing.