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Pitch Black.

Beautiful Bernal.
By Trip

Lovely Loreto.

Beautiful Mexico.
By Area
El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)

Black Cat Bone.

Timewave Zero summit.
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Agua De Coco.

Good morning again Potrero.
NOT El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)

Crescent Moon Buttress.

Crescent Moon Buttress.
Pena de Bernal (Queretaro)

King Kong.

Bernal.
Parque Nacional El Chico (Hidalgo)

Mas Alla De La Estrellas.

Parque Nacional El Chico.
Aculco (Mexico)

Psicosis.

Aculco.
Loreto (Baja California Sur)

Lolita.

Loreto.
Resources

Enjoying some pizza and margaritas from Edgardo’s trailer.
There are other resources online…but you can figure those out for yourself.
El Potrero Favorites

Off The Couch. Drew Smith photo.
Over the course of our five visits to El Potrero Chico, we have climbed the majority of the routes that were within our ability and of interest to us (don’t care about single pitch stuff). Sure, there are always loose ends to tie up and in a pinch I’m sure we’d find a handful that would justify another easy climbing holiday in the sunny Nuevo Leon. And of course there’s always the possibility of new development. However, reflecting back on all the fun times, we think that these are our favorites to date:
Short

Agua De Coco.
Agua De Coco – fun pocket-y climbing with nice views of the Jungle Wall across the canyon. There’s even a palm tree belay station (don’t worry – it’s all bolted of course). A good way to burn a half day.
Medium Short

Snott Girlz (P5).
Snott Girlz – very good climbing including some crack sections up high. A route that tops out on the ridge gendarme and offers enticing views of Time Wave Zero Buttress. Pitch 5 opener is quite photogenic – make sure the belayer is the one with the camera.
Off The Couch – move per move, the front side seems to have the sort of face climbing we enjoy the most – not overly steep but quite crimpy (ala Smith). While all three routes that we’ve done there top out on the same scenic ridge (Scariest Ride In The Park traverse), this was our favorite. Man I wish we were good enough for the real gem of the front side.
Medium Long

Space Boyz.
Space Boyz – is the original classic line of EPC (a modern North American favorite) and without a doubt it is a great line! A nice mouthful of a day even if the rock is getting polished in places.
Black Cat Bone – good variety: from crimpy faces to a roof pull to a (pretty challenging) chimney up high. Don’t let the grassy break in the lower third deter you. The position is quite nice and it does not get the crowds like its next door neighbor (SB).
Long

Timewave Zero.
Timewave Zero – the moderate classic of the area (well, if you aid the 5.12 pitch like we did). Despite the complaints you read online (monotonous, not sustained etc), we found the climbing to be very good and the position – high above the interior of the Potrero – to be spectacular. One of the modern classics of North America.
Pueblos Mágicos

Aculco.

Misión San Javier.
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Cadereyta de Montes.

Mineral del Chico.
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Amealco de Bonfil.

Todos Santos.
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