Europe

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South Arete – Spigolo Giallo

Spigolo Giallo.

Riglos

The magical Riglos.

In 2008, our trip to the Dolomites and Meteora proved to be the entry drug to the world of climbing outside of the US. We’ve been off to the races since then. This is a slowly growing list of places we’ve climbed on the continent.

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Picos De Europa

Picos de Europa.

Skeleton Ridge

Skeleton Ridge.

Though there may not be much in the way of true wilderness, the Old World charm still makes it seem like a worthwhile effort. Though I have to say that we find the geographic peripheries of Europe much more appealing than the traditional “heart” of the continent these days; Scotland, Portugal, portions of Scandinavia and Ukraine seem more fascinating than a trip to Switzerland or Austria (but we would not pass up on going there either).

Trip Reports Listed Chronologically

South Face - Cassin

Cassin on Cima Piccolissima.

North Face - Comici

Waiting out the weather in Rifugio Auronzo (2008).

  • “Euro Sampler – Dolomites” (August to September 2008)
  • “Euro Sampler – Meteora” (September 2008)
  • “Rainy Riglos” (May 2010)
  • “Revisiting The Dolomites” (July 2010)
  • “A Couple Of Spanish Crags” (September 2010)
  • “Spanish Road Trip” (September 2017)
  • “British Chalk” (July 2018)
  • “French Failure” (August 2019)
  • “Saxon Sandstone” (August 2021)
  • Listings By Area and Route

    The Dolomites (Italy)

    Tissi

    Sella Pass.

    Pillar Rib

    Tofana Di Rozes.

    So many great (and long) moderates, so many hard (and long) classics! We do love the place. Weather can be a bit shifty (based on our two trips there and a total duration of about 5 weeks) but overall not too bad. We’ve been known to have worse weather luck elsewhere.

  • South-West Corner, Trenker on First Sella Tower (V-)
  • W.S.W. Arete, Tissi on First Sella Tower (VI)
  • West Face, Vinatzer on Third Sella Tower (V+)
  • Gross-Fuhre on Piz Pordoi (V)
  • South Face Buttress 2, Pillar Rib on Tofana Di Rozes (VI-)
  • South-West Face, Via delle Guide on Torre Grande (IV)
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    North Face - Comici

    Tre Cime di Lavaredo group.

    East Face - Steger

    Cima Catinaccio.

  • South Face, Via Miriam on Torre Grande (V+)
  • North Face, Comici on Cima Grande Di Lavaredo (VII-)
  • South Arete, The Yellow Edge on Cima Piccola (VI)
  • South Face, Cassin on Cima Piccolissima (VII-)
  • South Face, Tissi on Torre Venezia (VI-)
  • East Face, Steger on Cima Catinaccio (VI-)
  • Meteora (Greece)

    Hypotenuse (Sourloti)

    Hypotenuse.

    Archimedes

    Meteora.

    We spent about two weeks there during the early fall (September to early October) of 2008…and probably had like 4 sunny days in total. All other days involved dodging rain showers or just not being able to climb because of sustained rain. Fortunately, the table wine was cheap, there were monasteries to see, Greek coffee was decent and Internet readily available…did I mention cheap booze? When we did get to climb, it was stellar! Reasonably well protected (based on routes we’ve done) and seemingly well maintained routes at almost any (weekend warrior) grade level. Awesome spires and an other-worldly kind of setting.

  • Eiertanz on Kelch (VI- A0)
  • Ostkante Doupianifels (VI)
  • Sudostwand on Doupianifels (VII-)
  • Traumpfeiler on Heiliger Geist (V+)
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    Traumpfeiler

    Traumpfeiler (Pillar Of Dreams).

    Archimedes

    Pixari Formation.

  • Nordostweg on Heiliggeistwachter (V+)
  • Sudwestkante on Heiliggeistwachter (VI-)
  • Via Scorpion on Spindel (V- A0)
  • Archimedes on Pixari (V)
  • Hypotenuse on Sourloti (VI)
  • Linie Des Fallenden Tropfens on Sourloti (VI)
  • Hartetest on Kumarieskopf (VI+)
  • Westkante on Ypsiloterafels (VI-)
  • Riglos (Spain)

    Chooper

    Chooper route.

    Riglos

    Riglos at sunset.

    Intimidating place! For us anyway. Exactly the sort of climbing we’ve successfully managed to avoid here in the US: steep, sustained, and juggy. All arms it seemed. Really had to knock down our hopes and expectations. On the flip side, it’s so much of what we love: multipitch climbing, wild exposure, and proud summits sitting atop huge (1000-foot tall) towers! Will go back…barely scratched the surface.

  • Normal Route on El Puro (6b)
  • Moskitos on La Visera (6a – last pitch skipped, wet)
  • Galletas on Mallo Fire (6a)
  • Chooper (bail) on El Pison (6a C1)
  • Chooper on El Pison (6a C1)
  • Espolon del Adamelo & Normal Route on El Pison (5c)
  • Seron-Millan on El Pison (6a+ A0)
  • Montserrat (Spain)

    Punsola Reniu

    Cavall Bernat.

    Mas-Brullet

    Montserrat.

    Sort of seemed like Meteora (beyond just the obvious similarities in rock type) in the relaxed atmosphere and fun, low-stress climbing. Would love to go back for a third trip.

  • Punsola-Reniu on Cavall Bernat (6b A0)
  • Mas-Brullet on Serrat del Moro (6b A0)
  • Cerda-Riera on Bandereta (6a)
  • Costa Blanca (Spain)

    Diedro UBSA

    Diedro UBSA.

    Diedro UBSA

    Diedro UBSA.

    One route so far. White (and polished!) limestone; blue Mediterranean; good seafood. What’s not to like…except perhaps for out of control sprawl.

  • Diedro UBSA on Penon de Ifach (5c)
  • Isle Of Wight (UK)

    Skeleton Ridge

    Skeleton Ridge.

    Isle Of Wight

    Isle Of Wight.

    I mean where else do you get to climb chalk above a sea? Loved it! Probably won’t be back to the Island though.

  • Skeleton Ridge on The Needles (HVS 4c)
  • Verdon (France)

    Arete du Belvedere

    Verdon Gorge.

    France

    La Palud Sur Verdon.

    Rain, drinking, eating, more rain, trace quantity of climbing…

  • Arete du Belvedere (5c)
  • Saxony (Germany)

    Brosinnadel

    Brosinnadel.

    Decin

    Decin, Czech Republic.

    We’ve always wanted to try climbing there. Strict and very unique ethics (probably one of a kind in the world) making the climbing of the little sandstone towers a fright fest. Combined with a family reunion, we did have a great time though!

  • Winkelriss on Daxenstein
  • Loschnerwand on Daxenstein
  • Alter Weg on Chinesischer Turm
  • Sudriss on Sonnenwendstein
  • Alter Weg on Kleine Herkulessaule
  • Direkte Westkante on Vorderer Schroffer
  • Alter Weg on Brosinnadel
  • Schusterweg on Falkenstein
  • Hintere Reibung on Schrammsteinkegel
  • Alter Weg on Dreifingerturm
  • Euro Cityscapes

    Venice

    Venice.

    Amsterdam

    Amsterdam.

    Not that we seek out those urban encounters but they do happen on occasion. Always useful for having a pint or a decent meal (but without fail, tiresome after about a half a day).

  • Venice
  • Munich & Wroclaw
  • Barcelona
  • Pamplona
  • Amsterdam & Amsterdam
  • Calpe
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    London

    London.

    Prague

    Prague.

  • London
  • Helsinki
  • Moscow & Moscow
  • Frankfurt
  • Prague
  • .
    Barcelona

    Barcelona.

    Moscow

    Moscow.

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    Diedro UBSA

    Calpe.

    Wroclaw

    Old Town quarter in Wroclaw.

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