Moonarie Day One

Australia

Go back to South And Western Australia Trip.

Moonarie
Moonarie.

Having left the boys in the care of my mom and brother, we set off for our third Australia trip in the predawn hours of day one. A quick layover in Auckland and a bit of waiting at Adelaide airport for our rental car to be readied and soon enough we were on the road heading north into the interior of the continent. Despite the long series of fights, we were surprisingly lucid during our 5 hour drive to Hawker, a hamlet with a population of about 200 and the logical basecamp for Moonarie.

Reasonably early start the following morning and a 30ish minute drive to Moonarie; going extra slowly to avoid any collisions with the local fauna. Moonarie is a ~100 meter tall escarpment with the walls forming a cirque. It’s part of a larger formation known as the Wilpena Pound which looks like a meteor crater (but is not) and lies within the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

.
Pagoda
Pagoda.

The goal for day one was a 4-pitch classic called Pagoda rated Australian 17. A photo of a climber on the second pitch of this route was a big reason for us going there. Looking up from the trailhead, the cliffs look painfully far away. However, the hike up is on a nice climbers’ trail and goes by quickly (about an hour). There’s a sweet backcountry, climbers’ campsite at the base of the walls complete with some cooking hardware and even a water tank.

Pagoda turned out to be as enjoyable as it looked: a scrambly pitch one; a very cool pitch two featuring a rising traverse on and up onto a flake; fun face/crack climbing on pitch 3; and a clean exit pitch. A couple hundred meters of hiking along the flat cliff top brought us to the descent gully and soon enough we were back at the campsite. Given that we did not see a soul since leaving the highway in the morning, we decided to leave our packs at the campsite for next day’s climbing.

Photos

Adelaide
Waiting at Auckland Airport for our Adelaide flight (Nov. 2023).
Adelaide
And waiting at Adelaide Airport for our rental car to be readied (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
On the drive from the airport in Adelaide to Hawker, South Australia (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
Australian road train (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
Quorn, SA. About an hour before Hawker. Looking to pick up some food and booze (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
Found the latter (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
More Quorn sights (Nov. 2023).
South Australia
Nearing Hawker (Nov. 2023).
Flying Buttress
490 includes the greater Hawker metro area. The city itself is reportedly closer to 200 (Nov. 2023).
Hawker
Our Airbnb rental in Hawker (Nov. 2023).
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park
The cliffs of Moonarie in the morning (Nov. 2023).
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park
A closer look (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Start of the approach to Moonarie (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Welcome to Moonarie (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Moonarie (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Left side of the amphitheater. Pagoda route is in the left third of the photo (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Closer look at Pagoda (dead center of photo; Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Shirley at the climbers’ bivy (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Hiking over to the start of Pagoda (having left our packs at the climbers’ camp; Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Traversing the base of the walls (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Starting up Pagoda route (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
More of the scrambly pitch 1 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Pitch 1 of Pagoda (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Views from the first belay (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Starting pitch 2 of Pagoda: a flake traverse. Best pitch of the route (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 2 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
At the crux of pitch 2 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
In the crux moves of pitch 2 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
The views (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley starting pitch 2 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
A closer look (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
More views from Pagoda (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Pitch 2 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley at the pitch 2 crux (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
And above the little crux (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley at the pitch 2 belay (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Leading pitch 3 of Pagoda – the overall crux (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 3 of Pagoda (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
A cool dissolution pocket a.k.a. a cave just past the crux on pitch 3 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Higher on pitch 3 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Nearing the third belay (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley starting pitch 3 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley on pitch 3 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Views from high on Pagoda route (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Nearing the end of pitch 3 (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Starting pitch 4 of Pagoda (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Views from the top of Pagoda (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley topping out on the route (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Hiking the top of the escarpment in search of the descent gully (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Cairns everywhere but really you just follow the edge of the cliff (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley nearing the gully (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Starting the descent (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Sign marks the spot (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Shirley in the gully with the water tank visible (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
The high camp from the gully (Nov. 2023).
Pagoda
Looking back towards the Pagoda route (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Shirley on the hike down (Nov. 2023).
Moonarie
Almost back to the car (Nov. 2023).
Hawker
Cooking up a storm in our Airbnb rental in Hawker (Nov. 2023).

Go to Moonarie Day Two.
Go back to South And Western Australia Trip.