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Middle of the night arrival in Quito followed by a short night in the airport hotel and an hourlong hop southward to Cuenca the following morning. Felipe met us at the airport and we drove some 45 minutes out of the city to the village of Cojitambo. There we’d stay at Juan Gabriel’s house – an old school climber and the driving force behind route development at Cojitambo – and enjoy his hospitality, which included listening to lots of classic rock, for about 4 days.
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On the first day of climbing we headed up to the base of the right-hand peak and climbed a pitch named Vamo Hacele (6a+). Fun and clean but I screwed up at the top and ended up at a wrong belay station. Eventually solved the problem but then the upper pitch looked terribly vegetated and so I got on a different route (Chilin) which ended up spitting me off. A little blooded up and with bruised egos, we tucked tail and called it a day. Not a great start. Second day went better and we climbed the classic Langarota route on the left hand peak, about 8 pitches and 6a+. Felipe met us at the top and together we hiked off, checking out some Inca ruins on the way down.
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