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Normal Route (6b, 8P) on El Puro
The following day we returned and climbed the Normal Route on El Puro (Cigar), a semi-detached spire on the face of the huge Pison tower. The first three pitches follow some clean and steep dihedrals and grooves on the left side of the Pison (we did the direct start per guidebook). The climbing takes a bit of getting used to: steep bulges on good if polished rocks partially embedded in the ambient sandstone. After a short but very wet section of steep pocket pulling, we reached the lower angle chimney formed by the Puro and the Pison. This brought us to the beautifully exposed final two pitches up the side of the spire. Shirley started up and promptly pulled off one of the encrusted “potato” stones taking a short but freaky fall (nearly landed on her back on a ledge). Other than a bruised arm, she was unscathed and finished her lead. My final lead involved overcoming the crux 6b (~5.10) bulge just below Puro’s summit – short but steep! An airy summit (quite chossy too) was the reward. A quick series of raps brought us back to the base and a pork- and wine-rich dinner.Photos

El Pison is the huge tower (photo is not distorted, the face actually overhangs as shown) and the semi-detached El Puro (Cigar) is the obvious needle-like spire on Pison’s face (May 2010).

Our favorite bakery in the village of Ayerbe ( a few kilometers drive from Riglos) is just down the street and on the right (May 2010).

Best meal of the day in Aragon – pastrycentric breakfast including cafe con leches. Some place in Huesca (May 2010).

The beautiful southwest face of El Pison Tower…the lines here are on the order of 8 pitches in length and very very steep. El Puro is on the left (May 2010).

El Pison is the huge tower (photo is not distorted, the face actually overhangs as shown) and the semi-detached El Puro (Cigar) is the obvious needle-like spire on Pison’s face (May 2010).

Shirley topping out on El Puro. El Pison is the wall on the left and Riglos the village is below. The belay consisted of my fat ass and 3 old pins driven into sand…all equalized of course (May 2010).