Lighthouse Arete Direct

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Lighthouse Arete Direct
Lighthouse Arete Direct.
A reasonably OK forecast for the third day in Wales. We headed for what’s probably the easiest sea cliff route in Gogarth: The Lighthouse Arete Direct (3-pitch, VS 4c) on a sea cliff called Castell Helen. A short walk brought us to the edge of the cliff and the abseil point (ancient pegs and some gear). Two climbers were hiking back uphill telling us that they thought that the conditions were too windy. With our limited time budget, we nevertheless fixed the rope and rapped down to the start of the line just above the waves. The route features easy climbing but the setting is spectacular with the South Stack Lighthouse providing the backdrop. Some light rain along the way but, by the time we were topping out, sunshine had returned and crowds of climbers showed up at the abseil point.

After lunch, our family joined us and we took our nephew for a 2-pitch route called Stairs and graded S on the nearby Holyhead Mountain. Fun outing with good views but very windy and quite cold. Somebody got an almost full on alpine experience.

Photos

Lighthouse Arete Direct
On the short hike down to the abseil point to the start of Lighthouse Arete Direct route (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
South Stack Lighthouse form the abseil point (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Rapping in (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
It was quite windy (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley on the rappel down to the start of Lighthouse Arete Direct route (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Interesting rock. Zeroth belay on Lighthouse Arete Direct (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Starting the lead of pitch 1 of Lighthouse Arete Direct (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Looking back at Shirley from the start of pitch 1; a nearly horizontal leftward traverse just above the surf (May 2024),
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Pitch 1 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
More pitch 1 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
A mostly horizontal traverse (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Almost at the belay (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
South Stack Lighthouse from the first belay (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley starting pitch 1 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
More of Shirley on pitch 1 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
A closer look (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Making progress on pitch 1 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Nearing the first belay (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Starting up pitch 2 of Lighthouse Arete Direct in light drizzle (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley’s belay companion (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Higher on pitch 2 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 2 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
A curious guy (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
South Stack Lighthouse from the second belay on Lighthouse Arete Direct (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Lighthouse Arete Direct (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Our audience (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Pitch 2 (May 2024).
South Stack Lighthouse (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley on pitch 2 (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Arriving at the second belay (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley on pitch 3 of Lighthouse Arete Direct (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Shirley with the lighthouse in the background (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Arriving at the abseil point which marks the top of the route (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Hiking back as the crowds of climbers converge on the abseil point (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
That’s Elin’s Tower. Abseil point is just to the right and below the structure (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Is that a Welsh sailing club of some sort (May 2024)?
Lighthouse Arete Direct
A lunch break at the parking lot cafe while we wait for our family to join us (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
Max and Agata (May 2024).
Wales
Holyhead Mountain from the approach hike (May 2024).
Lighthouse Arete Direct
On the way to Holyhead Mountain (May 2024).
Stairs
Views from the base of the Stairs route (May 2024).
Stairs
Leading pitch 1 of Stairs (May 2024).
Stairs
William at the base of the Stairs route on Holyhead (May 2024).
Stairs
Higher on pitch 1 (May 2024).
Stairs
William on pitch 1 of the Stairs route (May 2024).
Stairs
William just below the crux (May 2024).
Stairs
And above the crux (May 2024).
Stairs
Nearing the first belay (May 2024).
Stairs
And Shirley on pitch 1 (May 2024).
Stairs
Views from the Stairs route on Holyhead Mountain (May 2024).
Stairs
Shirley leading pitch 2 of Stairs (May 2024).
Stairs
William starting up the second pitch (May 2024).
Stairs
Shirley & William atop the route (May 2024).
Stairs
And one more of the happy duo (May 2024).
Stairs
Hiking over to the descent gully (May 2024).
Stairs
William and Shirley in the descent gully (May 2024).
Stairs
Shirley, William, and Jason (half frozen) on the hike back (May 2024).

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