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Shirley on Alien.
Based on our online research, we knew that the level of climbing on the cliffs of Tsaranoro was pretty damn high. The bulk of the long routes (things up to 20 pitches on 800 meter tall walls) require mandatory free climbing of at least 7a (French sport rating ~ 5.11 YDS) or much (much!) higher. Though we have no hesitation about enjoying a route that requires some aid sections, these lines here don’t really lend themselves to a straightforward pull on a piece or five. The uniqueness of Tsaranoro granite lies in the fact that it’s almost totally devoid of cracks! You are at the mercy of the FA-ists and their bolt gun trigger fingers. And so our list of objectives here was small and uncertain.
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Yours truly on Alien’s fifth pitch.
With these doubts in our heads, we woke up on day 1 and following a quick breakfast headed up to the School Wall (Secteur Ecole) to climb one of the easiest lines in the range: the 10-pitch long Alien clocking in at 6b. The first few pitches follow an easy (5c) slab on an apron. The granite is beautiful: high friction, clean, and largely black or dark brown in color. Very unique, at least for us. The route then reaches the upper headwall and difficulties pick up a bit. Low angle slab is replaced by steeper edges a bit reminiscent of some routes in Cochise. The line is well bolted and we were enjoying the day swapping leads. Conditions were windy and things got chilly at belays. The final easy pitch is probably to be avoided (was not set up for rapping…though it is now). We rapped the line and felt generally satisfied with our first outing. The first dinner in Camp Catta did not disappoint either. We also met the other climbers (only ones) in camp that night, four Polish guys who have apparently just sent the (Lynn Hill) line, called Bravo Les Filles clocking rated 8b. They’d continue to do some hard and serious routes for the next week while we wallowed in our intro grades.
Photos
Our home for 9 days at Camp Catta (Sept. 2011).
A view of tent shelters in Camp Catta (which also has cabins that are not visible here; Sept. 2011).
Heading up to climb Alien (Sept. 2011).
Following pitch 1 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Starting up pitch 2 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Higher on pitch 2 (Sept. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 2 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 2 slab action on the apron of The School Wall (Sept. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 3 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Higher on pitch 3 (Sept. 2011).
Shirley nearing the third belay (Sept. 2011).
Following pitch 3 of Alien; a friendly slab (Sept. 2011).
Moving the belay above pitch 3 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley moving to the base of pitch 4. The wavy grasses were quite slick (Sept. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 4 (Sept. 2011).
More of Shirley (and the slick grasses) on pitch 4 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
More of Shirley on pitch 4 (Sept. 2011).
Following pitch 4 (Sept. 2011).
More pitch 4 (Sept. 2011).
Nearing the fourth belay on Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley starting pitch 5 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 5. This is the first of the steeper pitches above the apron and reminiscent of some Cochise face climbs (Sept. 2011).
Shirley higher on pitch 5 (Sept. 2011).
Leading pitch 6 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of the 6th pitch (Sept. 2011).
Higher on pitch 6 (Sept. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 6 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 6 (Sept. 2011).
More of Shirley on pitch 6 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley starting up pitch 7, the 6b crux of the route (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 7 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 7 (Sept. 2011).
Following pitch 7 (Sept. 2011).
Arriving at the seventh belay station (Sept. 2011).
Starting up pitch 8 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley on pitch 8 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 8 (Sept. 2011).
Arriving at the 8th belay (Sept. 2011).
Shirley leading pitch 9 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 9 (Sept. 2011).
Following pitch 9 (Sept. 2011).
Pitch 9 (Sept. 2011).
Nearing the 9th belay station (Sept. 2011).
Leading pitch 10 to the summit (Sept. 2011).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 10 of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Views from the top of Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley arriving on the summit with the Lemur Wall visible on the left (Sept. 2011).
Looking towards the summit of the Tsaranoro Massif from atop Alien (Sept. 2011).
Shirley on the summit (Sept. 2011).
Some views (Sept. 2011).
Shirley on the way down the route (Sept. 2011).
The Chameleon formation from the base (Sept. 2011).
The amazing face of the Krambony Pillar, home to the Tough Enough route clocking in at 8c+ and 12 pitches in length. Ondra’s recent insight (Sept. 2011).
Shirley and Chameleon (Sept. 2011).
Views from the hike down (Sept. 2011).
Shirley hiking back to Camp Catta (huts below) after our first climb in Madagascar (Sept. 2011).
A resident of Camp Catta (Sept. 2011).
Go to Part 3.
Go back to Madagascar.