Torre Principal

Frey

Go back to Frey.
Go back to Aguja Frey.

Chocolate Liquido
Torre Principal.

Incessant wind and cold for a third night in a row. A bit of a lull in the morning and so figured we should tick off the more exposed formation as we were running out of remaining days. 2.5 hours of slogging up gullies put us at the base of the notch that marks the start of the Normal Route on Torre Principal. We scrambled up and over the notch and got hit by what felt like a freight train of wind. Fortunately, our route of choice, Chocolate Liquido (6a+), was only 4 pitches long. Though the day started out partly cloudy, things were quickly becoming sunless, cold, and very windy. Very good crack climbing on pitches two and three (pitch 3 was not the advertised “4” ~ 5.6…) and a classic finishing, face climbing pitch (where all routes join the Normal). A handful of single rope raps and some roped down climbing put us back at the base. Having gotten a taste of the coldness on the west side of the ridge, we were cured of our desire to go back for Total Sinestro route – a nice looking route that according to a local climber (Mike from Switzerland who seemed to live in Frey for long periods of time) required “swimming weather” to be tolerable.

Photos

Torre Principal
Morning glow on the east face of Torre Principal (not the day we climbed it).

Torre Principal
Shirley on the morning approach to Torre Principal. The day started out cold of course but without the strong winds we’ve seen on previous mornings…this would not last.

Torre Principal
Slogging up to Torre Principal. Despite multiple layers & jackets, we never really broke a sweat (Feb. 2015).

Torre Principal
Ridge scramble marks the final section of the approach to the base.

Leading the first pitch of Chocolate Liquido.  The obvious dihedral above me is the money pitch of the route.  Normal route is just to the left (Feb. 2015).
Leading the first pitch of Chocolate Liquido. The obvious dihedral above me is the money pitch of the route. Normal route is just to the left (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Views from low on Chocolate Liquido (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Shirley on pitch 1 of Chocolate Liquido. It was cold and very windy (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Starting up the fun pitch 2 of Chocolate Liquido (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Looking back at Shirley from the pitch 2 dihedral (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Looking to exit the wideness at the top via some face climbing to the right – it worked (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Shirley topping out on pitch 2 of Chocolate Liquido (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Starting up pitch 3 of Chocolate Liquido (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
More views from the route (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
The book shows this pitch as being rated 4 (~5.6)…pulling over the bulge using the fist crack felt significantly harder than that (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Happy if cold Shirley on pitch 3 top out (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Fourth and final pitch – here we join the Normal Route for the beautiful summit block pitch (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Ref. Frey is in the left hand valley; El Cohete Lunar is in the right hand valley (not visible).

Chocolate Liquido
Fun face climbing on perfect golden granite (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Shirley on the final pitch (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Click for video (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Almost on the summit…

Chocolate Liquido
The lower spires of Torre Principal..as seen from the summit (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Shirley on the summit of Torre Principal (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Shirley rapping off the summit in deteriorating weather (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
Clouds rolling through (Feb. 2015).

Chocolate Liquido
A series of raps and some roped down climbing of the Normal Route brought us back to the base (Feb. 2015).

Torre Principal
Hiking down in frigid temps and increasing winds (Feb. 2015).

Torre Principal
Lago Schmoll from the hike down (Feb. 2015).

Torre Principal
Back to camp (Feb. 2015).

Frey
Refugio Frey (Feb. 2015).

Frey
Celebrating with a bottle of wine and some freeze dried food (Feb. 2015).

Frey
Whey simply heat the kettle? Nuke it!

Go to El Cohete Lunar.
Go back to Frey.