Dolomites – Part 4 | chossclimbers.com

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08/25/08. South Face – Tissi (VI-, 15P) on Torre Venezia

Shirley nearing the top of the chimney pitches (this is roughly #13) on Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

With bigger plans for the day, we got up at 4am and were driving the narrow roads in the dark. First light at Pordoi Pass and…snow on the ground! The copious rain turned to snow overnight just above the pass elevation. Plans were altered. We ate breakfast and headed south instead. Having done no homework on “rifugio’s”, we started the 90-minute approach hike armed with sleeping bags and foam pads (I’m a Dolomite idiot). Halfway up to Rifugio Vazzoler we ran into Denis from France. Denis was on his way back down to the car to retrieve their forgotten guidebook…we offered him ours and he graciously took Shirley’s pack all the way up to the Rifugio…running (Denis was in top shape and Shirley was not protesting too hard either). Denis and his partner were also headed for the Tissi route on Torre Venezia for their warm up line and so we agreed to start an hour later the next morning. The south face of the tower is beautiful and so was the climbing. The initial pitches went quickly esp. as we had the French team two pitches above saving us any route-finding efforts. The advertised “40 meter traverse” pitch (crux) was spectacular and ended at a nicely exposed semi-hanging belay. From there, the upper half of the route steepened progressively and the exit chimney pitches felt a bit strenuous. The descent raps are painstakingly marked (with spraypaint) and went smoothly. Soon we were eating warm pasta in the Rifugio and washing it down with cold beer. Must NOT get used to this! We bid farewell to Denis and hiked down to the car that evening.

Photos

We did much of this during our Dolomite trip...watching the forecasts either in our motel room in Castelrotto or down the street in the internet shop...this one looks like a go. Torre Venezia is on the menu (Aug. 2008).

Shirley on the approach hike to Rifugio Vazzoler. Torre Trieste dominates the view (Aug. 2008).

South face of Torre Venezia. Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route climbs the vegetated lower face right of the prominent dihedrals in the center. It then makes its way right and finishes via the chimneys visible on right near top of face (Aug. 2008).

Leading one of the lower pitches (2nd or 3rd) of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) on Torre Venezia's south face (August 2008).

Shirley somewhere on the first 5 pitches of the Tissi route on Torre Venezia's south face. Lower angle and somewhat grassy (Aug. 2008).

Pretty views from down low on the Tissi route. There's a working farm in the photo (Aug. 2008).

Leading pitch 5 of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) on Torre Venezia's south face. Steep but moderate climbing (August 2008).

Starting up pitch 7 of the Tissi route - this is the 40 meter traverse pitch (Aug. 2008).

Looking back at Shirley belaying me on the pitch 7 (40 meter) traverse on Tissi (Aug. 2008).

Leading the crux "40 meter traverse" pitch on Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

Shirley finishing the 40 meter traverse pitch (P7) on Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) on Torre Venezia (August 2008).

The amazing & hidden Torre Trieste as seen from up high on Tissi route on Torre Venezia (Aug. 2008).

Shirley somewhere on upper half (9th or 10th pitch) of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (August 2008).

Shirley just below the exit pitches (pitch 11-ish) of Tissi (Aug. 2008).

Leading a chimney near the top of Tissi route (pitch 12ish or so).

Shirley in the exit chimneys (yeah, face climbing kinda chimney....pitch 13) on Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (August 2008).

Shirley nearing the top of the chimney pitches (this is roughly #13) on Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

Leading a pitch (14th or so) near the top of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

Shirley near the top of the 14th pitch of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

Shirley topping out on the ringband terrace of Torre Venezia after our climb of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on the south face (Aug. 2008).

Shirley on the subsummit terrace on Torre Venezia with the AMAZING looking Torre Trieste in the background (Aug. 2008).

Shirley hiking around to the north face rap line on Torre Venezia's ringband terrace after our climb of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

The start of the raps down the north face of Torre Venezia (Aug. 2008).

Shirley getting used to the idea of rapping off of single ring bolts on the north face of Torre Venezia....a fashion trend we'd see quite a bit on European routes (August 2008).

Hiking down below the rap line with Torre Trieste in the background (Aug. 2008).

Shirley enjoying post climb pasta and beer in Rifugio Vazzoler after our climb of Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli (VI-, 15P) route on Torre Venezia's south face (Aug. 2008).

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