Go back to British Chalk.
Go back to The Approach. The approach.We headed out to the Old Battery just before 8 the following morning. We used the hour we had before the administrator showed up to test out and very nearly lose Jason’s drone (brief footage here). Once we were let in, things went reasonably quickly. We did a short rap off some fence posts to access the “abseil stake” and then fixed our 100 meter static and rapped down to the (otherwise inaccessible) beach. A short hike along the base of the ridge brought us to the start of the Skeleton Ridge route. The first pitch is probably the crux of the day but nothing to lose sleep over – you’re climbing mostly on flint stones embedded in the chalk with an occasional slabby chalk move thrown in. Rusty peg belay supplemented by my straddling of the ridge. Pitch 2 was mostly an easy walk and pitch 3 had some fun arête climbing including the first of “a cheval” ridge humping. We combined pitches 3 and 4 (to avoid the possibility of falling onto a shitty anchor) and had to gingerly step around two seagull chicks. I was half expecting to be dive bombed by the parents.
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Skeleton Ridge.Pitch 5 offered more easy (if deteriorating) ridge hiking and ended at the base of the famous “soaring arête” pitch. The views are of course excellent throughout the day. This 6th and final pitch was the highlight of the day for us (and probably most climbers): a moderate arête followed by a very exposed a cheval traverse of a 10 inch wide chalk fin with a 100 meters of exposure on either side. From there it was a quick hike back to the Battery and we were cooling ourselves off in their subterranean, cavernous museum by noon. The rest of the day was spent on ice cream, beach time, beer, booze and family.
Photos
Shirley waiting to be let in so that we can access the abseil stake (July 2018).Jason launching the drone while we wait for the administrator to let us in. Provided some of the most exciting moments of the day the drone shenanigans did…The Old Battery with Alum Bay on the right and Scratchell’s Bay on the left and The Needles seen rising out of the sea in the distance. Photo taken from drone footage by our cousin Jason. (July 2018).The Needles, Skeleton Ridge and The Old Battery as seen from a drone above Scratchell’s Bay. From drone footage by Jason. (July 2018).Looking east along the shore facing Scratchell’s Bay. Drone footage by Jason (July 2018).Looking for a suitable fence post to set up the initial, short rappel to the stake (July 2018).Shirley on the short rappel to reach the “abseil stake” (July 2018).Starting the 90 meter abseil into Scratchell’s Bay (July 2018).Shirley starting the rappel (July 2018).View east (July 2018).Views west (July 2018).Shirley arriving on the beach (July 2018).Hiking the rocky beach towards the start of Skeleton Ridge. A pretty incredible setting for a multi-pitch climb (July 2018).Scratchell’s Bay ambiance (July 2018).View back at the rocky beach of Scratchell’s Bay (July 2018).Shirley on the scenic approach to the start of the route (July 2018).The other Needles (July 2018).Nearing the start of the route (July 2018).Spectators waiting for the show (July 2018).Starting up the Skeleton Ridge. This first pitch is probably the crux or perhaps it’s that initial shock of climbing chalk (July 2018).Nearing the top of pitch 1 (July 2018).Straddling the ridge at the pitch 1 belay. Click for a quick video (July 2018).View east over Scratchell’s Bay from the top of pitch 1 (July 2018).Belay anchor atop pitch 1 …all backed up by my fat ass straddling the ridge (July 2018).Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Skeleton Ridge (July 2018).A bit higher (July 2018).Views of Alum Bay from the pitch 1 belay station (July 2018).Pretty fun and generally engaging climbing (July 2018).Well hello – we see you too.Topping out on pitch 1 (July 2018).Starting the lead of pitch 2. Easy scrambling but always exciting since neither the holds, nor the pro (including the anchor) are truly reliable (July 2018).The ambiance of the climb (July 2018).More views from pitch 1 belay station (July 2018).Shirley arriving at the second belay on Skeleton Ridge (July 2018).Starting pitch 3 of Skeleton Ridge (July 2018).A short lived crux of pitch 3 (July 2018).A couple of surprised seagull chicks I encountered atop pitch 3 (July 2018).Shirley at the pitch 2 belay (July 2018).Linking the short pitch 3 into 4…mostly because the belay set up atop pitch 3 looked kind of shitty; well, more shitty than others (July 2018).Shirley about to start pitch 3 (July 2018).A tourist boat (that we’d experience the next day) out for a sail on Alum Bay (July 2018).Shirley following pitch 4 (July 2018).Belay anchor at the top of pitch 4 (July 2018).Leading pitch 5 – mostly easy scrambling on a progressively more deteriorating quality ridge (July 2018).Shirley on the pitch 5 of Skeleton Ridge – low angle but pretty crumbly (July 2018).Wider angle view (July 2018).Looking over Alum Bay from high on Skeleton Ridge (July 2018).Some rubble riding (July 2018).“Belay is on; don’t fall”.Stacked chalk boulders (July 2018).Leading the “soaring arete” of pitch 6. This is probably the highlight of a very fun outing (July 2018).The arete climbing is followed by the classic a cheval “humping” (July 2018).Looking down from the finishing pitch of Skeleton Ridge. Click for a quick video (July 2018).And a slightly different angle view from the money pitch of Skeleton Ridge (July 2018).Looking back at Shirley from the finishing arete (July 2018).Shirley reaching the a cheval section of the finishing pitch (July 2018).Shirley looking incredulous (July 2018).Making progress. Click photo for a quick video – “rock!!”…I mean “chalk!!!” (July 2018).Scratchell’s Bay (July 2018).A wider angle view – a pretty incredible setting for a “rock” climb (July 2018).Shirley done with a shift of sheet rocking (July 2018).At the route’s top out point (July 2018).Shirley then ran the rope to the search light structure (July 2018).Route top out – a tighter view (July 2018).Packing up back at The Old Battery (July 2018).Cooling off in the small museum at The Old Battery post-climbing (July 2018).Views from the abseil stake (July 2018).Ropes are pulled and coiled. Mission accomplished – let’s go to the beach and do some drinking (July 2018).Views of Scratchell’s Bay and The Needles from an overlook point (July 2018).Zoomed in view of the start of the route (July 2018).William, Shirley and Jason (July 2018).Totland – a little hamlet near to The Needles where we stayed (July 2018).A birthday cake and family time (July 2018).Birthday girl (July 2018).With the climb we wanted in the bag, the beach holiday portion could now start (July 2018).Another pretty sunset in Totland (July 2018).
