Go back to Central Mexico Quickie.
Go back to Aculco The Town.
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6775-300x225.jpg)
At the top of the climbs.
Crack of dawn, 10am start the following day and we were in Aculco (the climbing area) 20 minutes later. A 10 minute hike takes you to the bottom of the gorge where a high density of quality crack climbs await. Though it’s not basalt it very much looks like a basalt crack climbing area (eg. Smith’s Lower Gorge). Carlos would suggest a route and we’d climb it. The grades were pretty stiff (think Tieton vs. Vantage) and we did a handful of 9s and 10-s. One of our chosen routes involved a 10 foot section of unprotected, mossy and shitty rock in order to access the quality splitter above. After palming my way up a couple moves, I finally reached a positive pocket and pulled. To my surprise the pocket, along with about 10lbs of shitty rock, came out and I went down. My only cam blew out the rock and I tumbled down onto a ledge and then the momentum carried me off the ledge and to the ground. Sounds dramatic but I was really no more than a handful of feet up and so was unhurt. One more route and we were tossing down some cold beers in a mini super right at the edge of the gorge. Afterwards, we followed Carlos to Bernal (he had a guiding gig there the following day) where we had dinner together and consumed many margaritas. Climbing talk is always funnest with a few drinks.
Photos
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0177-1024x681.jpg)
Though we initially agreed to meet at 9am, no breakfast place opened till 9 or 9:30 (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0183-1024x681.jpg)
Heading down into the Aculco Canyon for a day of cragging with Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Punos del 11](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9214-768x1024.jpg)
Starting up Punos del 11 route (5.7) in Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Punos del 11](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9225-768x1024.jpg)
Higher on Punos del 11 (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6754-1024x768.jpg)
Views from the edge of the rim at Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Punos del 11](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6765-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley on Punos del 11 (Dec. 2018).
![Punos del 11](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6764-1024x768.jpg)
Punos del 11 (Dec. 2018).
![Punos del 11](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6772-1024x768.jpg)
Punos del 11 (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6775-1024x768.jpg)
At the top of the climbs. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6779-1024x768.jpg)
Racking up for Psicosis. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9231-768x1024.jpg)
Starting up Psicosis (5.10a; Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6789-768x1024.jpg)
Psicosis. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6786-768x1024.jpg)
Psicosis. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9236-768x1024.jpg)
Psicosis below the crux (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6794-768x1024.jpg)
Making progress on Psicosis (5.10a; Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9238-768x1024.jpg)
Making progress on Psicosis (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6796-768x1024.jpg)
At the crux of Psicosis. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6802-1024x768.jpg)
…and past the crux (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6810-1024x768.jpg)
Pretty splitter on the upper half of Psicosis (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6811-1024x768.jpg)
Psicosis. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6823-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley starting up Psicosis (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9266-1024x768.jpg)
Views from the rim (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6829-768x1024.jpg)
More Shirley in action on Psicosis (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6841-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley topping out on Psicosis (Dec. 2018).
![Psicosis](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6844-1024x768.jpg)
Arriving on the rim (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6848-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley heading back down into the canyon for more climbing (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6859-768x1024.jpg)
Starting up El Libro de la Solemnidad (5.10a; Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9239-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6857-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9242-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6863-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9244-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6866-768x1024.jpg)
Topping out on El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9247-768x1024.jpg)
In the beautiful splitter section of El Libro de la Solemnidad (5.10a; Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6861-1024x738.jpg)
Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9270-1024x768.jpg)
The pretty waterfall in Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6874-768x1024.jpg)
Shirley enjoying the thin hands splitter on El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6876-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6877-768x1024.jpg)
El Libro de la Solemnidad. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![El Libro de la Solemnidad](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6869-1024x768.jpg)
Belaying Shirley atop El Libro de la Solemnidad (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6853-1024x768.jpg)
Back down into the canyon (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9259-1024x768.jpg)
Aculco gorge (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9264-1024x768.jpg)
The little oasis that is the bottom of the gorge in Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Marionetas Nocturnas](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6880-768x1024.jpg)
Starting up Marionetas Nocturnas (5.8). Just as I got my left hand to the start of good rock and a nice pocket, the whole thing pulled out and I went down ripping out my one 0.75 from some shitty rock. Here Shirley is standing on a ledge about 1 meter above the bottom. I hit the ledge and kept rolling down. No damage though (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6886-768x1024.jpg)
Starting the lead of Cascarita de Limon (5.9). Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6887-768x1024.jpg)
Low on Cascarita de Limon (Dec. 2015).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6894-768x1024.jpg)
Higher on Cascarita de Limon (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6895-768x1024.jpg)
Fun cracks on Cascarita de Limon. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6907-768x1024.jpg)
Above the first roof. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6910-768x1024.jpg)
A sloping ledge on Cascarita de Limon (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6923-1-768x1024.jpg)
Finishing double cracks on Cascarita de Limon. Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6950-768x1024.jpg)
Shirley Cascarita de Limon belayed by yours truly and photographed by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6947-768x1024.jpg)
Shirley at the crux of Cascarita de Limon (5.9). Photo by Carlos (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9276-768x1024.jpg)
Shirley on the upper half of the very nice Cascarita de Limon (5.9; Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9299-768x1024.jpg)
Cascarita de Limon (Dec. 2018).
![Cascarita de Limon](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9339-768x1024.jpg)
Shirley topping out on Cascarita de Limon (5.9; Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_6878-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley and I on the rim. Photo by Carlos taken from canyon bottom (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9354-1024x768.jpg)
Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_9360-1024x768.jpg)
Back down for more fun (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0188-1024x681.jpg)
Views of the waterfall in Aculco (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0192-1024x681.jpg)
Done with climbing and heading over to the beer (Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0196-1024x681.jpg)
Celebrator beers with Carlos (right at the rim of the canyon in Aculco; Dec. 2018).
![Aculco](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0198-1024x681.jpg)
Starting out our drive from Aculco to Bernal (Dec. 2018).
![Pena de Bernal](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0208-1024x681.jpg)
Relocating from Aculco to Bernal (Dec. 2018).
![Pena de Bernal](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/DSC_0218-1024x681.jpg)
Grabbing our dinner with Carlos in Bernal (Dec. 2018).
Go to Filo Noroccidental.
Go back to Central Mexico Quickie.