Early Days In The Lower Gorge | chossclimbers.com

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Summary

Shirley starting the crux of Morning Star (5.10c). Photo by Cecile R.

In November of 2005, Cecile R. (a fellow graduate of the “Splitter Camp 2005” in Indian Creek) joined us for a weekend of climbing in Smith’s Lower Gorge. The weather was pretty marginal (cold and foggy) but we managed to climb some quality lines. We did Cruel Sister (5.10a), Morning Star (5.10c), and Mantra (5.10a). On Sunday, we climbed Wildfire (5.10b) and TR’ed some 5.8 wideness to the right. Then we called it a day as it was pretty damn cold.

Photos

Shirley, Blondie, and Cecile hiking into the west side of the Lower Gorge at Smith. Staender's Ridge dominates the background. November of 2005.

Cruel Sister

Starting up Cruel Sister (5.10a) in the Lower Gorge (Nov. 2005).

Leading Cruel Sister (5.10a). To the immediate right is Crack-a-no-go (5.11b) followed by Blood Clot (5.10b). Photo by Cecile R. November 2005.

Morning Star

Beginning the lead of Morning Star (5.10c) on Star Wall (Lower Gorge, West Columns). Shirley is belaying me. This is a 4-star crack/stemming route. Gorgeous climbing!! Photo credit: Cecile R. (November 19, 2005).

Leading Morning Star (5.10c). This is the friendly finger crack section below the crux. Photo by Cecile R.

Leading Morning Star (5.10c) on Star Wall (Lower Gorge's West Side Columns). I'm above the crux section at a nice, wide stance. Photo credit: Cecile R. (Nov. 19, 2005).

Shirley starting up Morning Star (5.10c) and trying her best to imitate the etching at the base (Nov. 2005).

Shirley seconding Lower Gorge's Morning Star (5.10c) - a Smith classic. Photo credit: Cecile R. (Nov. 19, 2005).

Shirley following Morning Star (5.10c) belayed by yours truly. Photo by Cecile.

Shirley starting the crux of Morning Star (5.10c). Photo by Cecile R.

Shirley seconding Morning Star (5.10c) on the Star Wall in the Lower Gorge. Photo by Cecile R.

Mantra

Leading Mantra (5.10a) - a somewhat dirty (sandy on lower half) route on Star Wall (Lower Gorge's West Columns). Shirley is belaying. Photo credit: Cecile R. (Nov. 19, 2005).

Blondie getting sleepy at the base of Mantra.

Beginning the lead of Mantra (5.10a) - a somewhat dirty (sandy on lower half) route on Star Wall (Lower Gorge's West Columns). Photo credit: Cecile R. (Nov. 19, 2005).

Shirley following Mantra (5.10a) on the Star Wall just after dark (Nov. 2005).

Wildfire

Shirley & Cecile at the base of Wildfire route in Smith's Lower Gorge (Nov. 2005).

Starting Wildfire (5.10b) belayed by Shirley. Photo by Cecile.

Leading Wildfire (5.10b) on (surprise!!) Wildfire Wall (Lower Gorge, West Side Columns). This is a great route. Initial 25 feet are the crux - thin stemming with tips to fingers crack. Photo credit: Cecile R. (November 20, 2005).

Shirley, Cecile, and Blondie hanging out at the base of Wildfire route on the Wildfire Wall (Nov. 2005).

Shirley stemming through the crux of Wildfire (5.10b). These lower 25 feet are the crux of the route - thin stemming with tips to fingers crack in flaring dihedral. Going eases on the upper half. 4-star route on Wildfire Wall (Lower Gorge's West Columns; Nov. 20, 2005).

Shirley, Cecile, and Blondie hiking out of the Lower Gorge after a weekend of good crack climbing (November 2005).

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