Chimney De Chelly

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Summary

Chimney De Chelly

Shirley on the crux of Chimney De Chelly (pitch 1).

In April of 2009 Shirley tried on-sighting Kunza Korner (5.10c) but ended up taking at the crux (she’d come back a year later and red point it). After that, we hiked over and did the semi-obscure Chimney De Chelly (5.10a) line on Spiderman Buttress. Good climbing with a tricky crux on pitch 1. Easier but looser pitch 2 and an easy but pleasant pitch 3 (5.8 face to a 4th class chimney). Kind of route that’s worth doing once and calling it good IMHO.

Photos

Kunza Korner

Kunza Korner

Shirley starting up Kunza Korner (5.10c) on the southern tip of Smith Rock Group. Beautiful dihedral that gets progressively harder near the top (Apr. 2009).


Kunza Korner

Shirley on a nice stance 1/3rd of the way up Kunza Korner (5.10c; Apr. 2009).


Kunza Korner

Shirley midway up Kunza Korner (Apr. 2009).


Kunza Korner

Shirley just below the crux near the top of Kunza Korner (5.10c).


Kunza Korner

Shirley leading Kunza Korner (5.10c) - a classic Smith inside corner...stellar, so stellar (Apr. 2009).

Chimney De Chelly

Chimney De Chelly

Shirley starting the lead of P1 of Chimney De Chelley on Mesa Verde Wall. The short crux (hard IMHO) is right above her (Apr. 2009).


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley leading P1 of Chimney De Chelly belayed by yours truly. From here, the pitch follows the right-trending arch to the right, followed by a sharp rightward traverse to a ledge (Apr. 2009)


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley on the crux of Chimney De Chelly (pitch 1).


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley leading the tricky pitch 1 of Chimney De Chelly.


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley leading the traverse to the belay ledge near the top of pitch 1 of Chimney De Chelly.


Chimney De Chelly

Following the traverse at the top of P1 of Chimney De Chelly belayed by Shirley...don't fall - shitty belay bolts/anchor (Apr. 2009).


Chimney De Chelly

Yours truly starting pitch 2 of Chimney De Chelly - some light chunkiness of the 5.9 sort to start followed by more 5.6 chunkiness.


Spiderman Buttress

A slightly less-ordinary view of Spiderman Buttress on the west side of Smith Rock SP. Climber in red is on either Out Of Harm's Way or its neighbor In Harm's way (5.8/5.7). Prominent crack is the less-traveled Dr. Doom (5.9 OW). View is from top of P2 of Chimney De Chelly route on Mesa Verde Wall (Apr. 2009).


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley following the slightly chunky but easy P2 of Chimney De Chelly -- don't pull too hard on the holds here (Apr. 2009). BTW, it seems pitch 2 of this line serves as a great big shitter for the many avian populations of Smith Rock...


Chimney De Chelly

Shirley leading the third pitch of Chimney De Chelly on Mesa Verde Wall (Apr. 2009).


Chimney De Chelly

Yours truly following the easy chimney near top of P3 on Chimney The Chelly route. Shirley (& her shoes) belaying (Apr. 2009).


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