Abracadaver.We’ve dreamt of giving Abracadaver (5P 5.11-, great topos from Geir here & a description here) a go ever since our first visit to the Stronghold some ten years ago. Much of it was lack of skill of course, more of it was intimidation and there were lower hanging fruits to snatch first. We finally gave it a whirl last Saturday and wow!! I can say with certainty that it was the best line we’ve climbed in the Dragoons (no contest) and probably one of the best climbs we’ve done anywhere. A whole lot of climbing is packed into those five pitches with each one offering something different: from water groove groveling, to a full on off-width street fight, to finger and hand cracks, to an easy chimney and of course some delicate face moves are sprinkled throughout. Different pitches seem to clearly favor different climber builds (apparently neither of our builds suits the OW as neither one of us got it cleanly)…think finger size vs. reach but I’ll let you figure out what is best for which pitch.
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Abracadaver (Dec. 2012).A short Sunday was spent catching up on sleep, doing the tourist bullshit in Tombstone as well as scoping out approaches to some other climbs of interest in southern Arizona . Having done our dream route in the area we now realize that what remains for future Cochise outings is harder and scarier…We do love the place however so we’ll probably go back and see how shit flies.
Photos
Saturday
North faces of the Rockfellows Group as seen on our approach in the morning. A keen eyed observer will pick out a climber on pitch 2 of Abracadaver (left hand side dome; Dec. 2012).An unknown party (who woke up 1.5 pitches earlier than we did) in the thick of it on the pitch 2 off-width of Abracadaver (Dec. 2012).Leading pitch 1 of Abracadaver with a party on the pitch 2 off-width above. Mostly easy climbing that leads to a very awkward couple moves into a warm-up (short) off-width section (Dec. 2012).Shirley starting up pitch 1 (Dec. 2012).The little section of off-width (warm up!) on pitch 1 of Abracadaver (Dec. 2012).Shirley & I waiting at the base of the pitch 2 OW on Abracadaver. Photo credit goes to Caitlin M. from the party ahead of us (thank you!! Dec. 2012).Shirley …admiring the off width of pitch 2 from the belay. Yeah, we both had pretty much the same expression…fuuuck!Starting up the pitch 2 off-width (Dec. 2012).The bloodletting that is pitch 2 of Abracadaver…starts out easy enough (5.9 wideness) before kicking it up a notch (felt like about 12 notches to me) to a 5.10 off-width (Dec. 2012).A closer look (Dec. 2012).Shirley starting pitch 2 (Dec. 2012).The pitch 2 off-width demands a toll for passage (at least of those with poor off-width technique). Is that a piece of my skin hanging on the pants??Shirley low on the off-width of pitch 2 (Dec. 2012).Geology at work. I think a hardman route called the Uncarved Block passes through that neighborhood (Dec. 2012).Shirley seconding the second (off-width if that’s not obvious) pitch of Abracadaver. The bulge just above Shirley is the crux of the pitch (Dec. 2012).eading the GORGEOUS pitch 3 of Abracadaver – starts as an easy 5.10- lieback, then gives you a bit of a breather (where I’m at) before getting thinner to just before the leftward exit. Oddly enough Shirley found this (5.11-) easier than Forest Lawn (5.9)…green Aliens vs. yellow to red Aliens…such is life (Dec. 2012).Looking back at Shirley from just above the crux on pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).A wiiiiide rest stem midway through the 5.11- tips (Shirley calls it “fingers”) crack on pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Shirley starting up pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Shirley in the middle of the crux section on pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Views form the route (Dec. 2012).Shirley enjoying the well deserved stem rest above the crux of pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Pitch 3 (Dec. 2012).Shirley on the traverse at the top of the 3rd pitch (Dec. 2012).Starting pitch 4 (Dec. 2012).The crux of pitch 4 comes in the first 40 feet. A 5.10+ left-facing corner that has an intermittent seam for pro and requires semi-blind placements. Then you swing out left to a 5.8 face…this pitch had me worried the night before as I’ve heard of much better climbers taking some wingers on it (Dec. 2012).Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 4 of Abracadaver (Dec. 2012).And out of the difficulties on pitch 4 (Dec. 2012).Looking down the cool little chimney near the top of the 4th pitch (Dec. 2012).Unknown climbers hiking the summit of the End Pinnacle to the rappels. What’s My Line Dome is in the background as well (Dec. 2012).Belaying from the top of the Friendly Flake (pitch 4) on Abracadaver. Photo was taken by Kaitlin M. as she and her partner were rapping from the top (Dec. 2012).And the photographer herself (Dec. 2012).Shirley nearing the top of the 4th pitch of Abracadaver (Dec. 2012).Shirley topping out on the 4th pitch of Abracadaver. An easy chimney tops off this pitch and the belay is atop a perfect little ledge formed by the top of the Friendly Flake (Dec. 2012).Starting up the fifth and final pitch of Abracadaver – easy crack to a short, single bolt protected moves that clock in at 5.10- if you’re tall and (reportedly, per topo) 5.11- if you’re not so tall (Dec. 2012).More of pitch 5 (Dec. 2012).Face climbing crux of pitch 5 (Dec. 2012).Shirley belaying me on the final pitch. She’s sitting at a nice and cozy belay top the Friendly Flake (Dec. 2012).Shirley topping out on Abracadaver – top of pitch 5 and the easy face climbing. Shadows of the Rockfellow Group are cast below (Dec. 2012).A giant bong (Dec. 2012).Looking back at Shirley from the final, easy pitch of Abracadaver. The shadows of the Rockfellows are pretty distinct (Dec. 2012).Views from top of route (Dec. 2012).Views from top of route (Dec. 2012).Summit blocks from the top of the route (Dec. 2012).Shirley on the long and final rap down the north face of the Rockfellow Dome. The first three pitches of Abracadaver are on the right as is the opening chimney of Knead Me (Dec. 2012).Admire the OW on the right (Dec. 2012).Admiring the off-width memento (Dec. 2012)Abracadaver on the north face of the Rockfellow Dome in all of its 5-pitch glory (Dec. 2012).Starting the hike down with the End Pinnacle in the background (Dec. 2012).Shirley with the gorgeous Rockfellows on the hike down (Dec. 2012).
Sunday
Ladies!
Tombstone the tourist trap – but has a good view of The Sheepshead and other west side Stronghold formations (Dec. 2012).
Cactus shots in Catalina SP (Dec. 2012).
Shirley hiking past a large saguaro in Catalina state park (Dec. 2012).
A tiny offshoot on a huge saguaro (Dec. 2012).
Ideas for future climbs in southern Arizona (Dec. 2012).
