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Saturday
Shirley topping out on pitch 6 of Unimpeachable Groping (Nov. 2010).
Following our newly regained freedom (we were under house arrest during the weekends since Labor Day due to Shirley’s professional exam), we flew to Vegas Friday night. Saturday morning saw us hiking into Juniper Canyon to do the 6-pitch Unimpeachable Groping (5.10) route (sandwiched between Ginger Cracks and Power Failure, both of which we’ve climbed in the past). Blue skies, mostly sunny conditions and perfect temps (upper 60’s). We both found the climbing to be sustained and steep. In fact, I thought it was harder than POD…mostly because of the steeper nature. The white, slabby sections (mostly below the roof pitch) were not very enjoyable but the varnished edge climbing was fun. The roof itself (pitch 4, our pitch 3) was pretty easy (the whole pitch was probably the easiest of the line, except for the final 5.8 presumably…we rapped from top of 6th, i.e. final 5.10 pitch). Though I think pulling the roof is harder for shorter folk. Dow on summipost gives great info. on combining pitches & avoiding the rap anchors (easy to end a couple pitches too early). I should note that one (of two) belay bolts below the roof is hangerless but more importantly totally loose (i.e. removable by hand). Some kind soul rigged up a cordalatte to incorporate the first lead bolt on the roof pitch into the anchor. We rapped from the last anchor below the lower angle terrain (top of 6th pitch…or perhaps from the anchor just below the angle kicks back). No other climbers on the route (or on next door Power Failure). However, the two parties around the corner on Ginger Cracks were putting up a vocal show. “Watch what you’re doing up there you MORON!” Presumably the lower party member yelling at the upper party. I don’t know what happened but I do know that there’s some loose shit on the upper portion of that route. Either way, it seemed uncool (unless the upper party was purposely throwing/cleaning shit onto the lower party). Whatever, none of our business.
Sunday
Shirley belaying me atop pitch 1 on Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
On Sunday morning, our fingers still tired from the day before (& our bodies unwilling to wake up early) we scrapped our plan A climb and hiked up to the Brownstone Wall. We were thinking about that other 5.10 route (the “mirror image” of Nightcrawler) but did not have the recommended large piece and so we went up the classic Black Dagger (5.7+) armed with our one #4 C4. We swapped leads with Shirley getting the odds and thus enjoying the best pitch of the route (#3, the dihedral). The roof traverse on pitch 2 seemed well protected (nuts & small, cams) but Shirley’s third pitch was a touch spicy w/o large cams (glad I was following). We topped out to high wind gusts and hiked our way down via the Gunsight. A stellar route – we thought it was probably the best 5.7 line we’ve done in Red Rocks to date. From the base, instead of hiking up and over to the slabs approach route, we bushwhacked our way down the gully passing the Rainbow Wall approach. Not too bad. We made the trailhead in the dark and quickly drove to the airport for the trip home.
Photos
Ginger Buttress of Rainbow Mountain. Unimpeachable Groping route climbs the tallest part of the sunlit face. Power Failure line follows the right side of the water streak visible on the left. December 2010.
Unimpeachable Groping
Starting pitch 1 of Unimpeachable Groping...bit of tree climbing to get to the first bolt (Nov. 2010).
Shirley following pitch 1 of Unimpeachable Groping with the aid tree visible below (Nov. 2010).
Shirley following Unimpeachable Groping (Nov. 2010).
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 of Unimpeachable Groping...hard move to reach the belay (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 1 of Unimpeachable Groping...the crux of the pitch (Nov. 2010).
Leading pitch 2 (which we combined with 3) of Unimpeachable Groping...slopy holds but not too steep this one (Nov. 2010).
Sleepy Shirley topping out on pitch 3 ...the only ledge (very nice ledge too) on the route (Nov. 2010).
Racking up for pitch 4 on Unimpeachable Groping & sporting my lucky shirt (Nov. 2010).
Starting up the fourth pitch of Unimpeachable Groping...very fun juggy roof pull, followed by some easier edge climbing (Nov. 2010).
Pulling the juggy roof on pitch 4 of Unimpeachable Groping...juggy and straightforward except if you're too short and can't reach the key jugs (Nov. 2010).
Shirley starting up pitch 5 of Unimpeachable Groping (Nov. 2010).
Shirley following pitch 5 of Unimpeachable Groping high above the approach gully (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 5 of Unimpeachable Groping...steeper but with sharper holds too than say pitch 2 (Nov. 2010).
Shirley on pitch 6 of Unimpeachable Groping. Beautiful varnished rock (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 6 of Unimpeachable Groping (Nov. 2010).
Shirley arriving at the final belay on Unimpeachable Groping (Nov. 2010).
Black Dagger
Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Black Dagger...lookee at that varnish (Nov. 2010).
Shirley belaying me atop pitch 1 on Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Eating a #0.75 Camalot on pitch 2 of Black Dagger (Nov 2010).
Shirley on pitch 2 of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley following pitch 2 (lower half) traverse abve a roof on Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley finishing up the traverse on pitch 2 of Black Dagger...I screwed up & we ended up breaking this pitch two into two (Nov. 2010).
Leading the upper half of pitch 2 of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 2 proper of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley starting up pitch 3 of Black Dagger...a great pitch (Nov. 2010).
Shirley leading the spectacular pitch 3 of Black Dagger...made a bit exciting by our lack of big gear (Nov. 2010).
Shirley chilling ...I mean belaying me... on the 4th class chimney on pitch 4 of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 5 of Black Dagger...our descent (bushwhack) gully is visible below (Nov. 2010).
Shirley topping out on pitch 5 of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
Shirley leading the 6th and final pitch of Black Dagger (Nov. 2010).
The fourth class terrain above the route (Nov. 2010).
Topping out on the 4th class terrain atop Brownstone Wall (Nov. 2010).
Hiking down through the Gunsight from top of Brownstone Wall (Nov. 2010).
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