Go back to Zion.
Iron Messiah.
On Saturday, we got up early (to beat the crowds) and did the Iron Messiah route. Turns out there were no other climbers anywhere within earshot all day. Excellent and varied climbing with nice views up and down the canyon. Thought that the pitch 3 groove was supposed to feature 5.10 and runout climbing and so I kept plugging in extra gear as insurance thinking that the hard/runout stuff must be just above but thankfully it never materialized. Don’t lose sleep over it. Once back in Springdale, we fired off a message to Dow to see if he had time to grab a beer. Eight or so years of exchanging…err, I mean consuming Dow’s climbing beta and this was to be our first in-person get-together. Indeed, Dow and Stacey joined us for a great fun evening of stories and beers in St. George.
.
Headache.
On Sunday, windy and chilly conditions near the tunnel made us scale back our plans (chicken out) and we ended up on the classic Headache route, a 3-pitch 5.10 gem. A bit of straight in jamming right off the deck followed by some slightly more varied terrain including a cool small roof on pitch 2. Quick raps, a bit of sightseeing in the park, and we were back home in rainy and cold Portland that same night.
Pics
Looking down canyon during the hike in to Spearhead and Iron Messiah (Nov. 2013).
The 5.9 sporto crimp fest on pitch 1 (very fun) of Iron Messiah (Nov. 2013).
Leading the “Groove Pitch” on Iron Messiah. I was waiting with anticipation (fear) for the 5.10 runout climbing but neither the 5.10 nor the R ever presented themselves…you can really sew up “The Groove” which is no harder than 5.9 (Nov. 2013).
Shirley about to enter the chimney system on pitch 3 (our 2) of Iron Messiah. The Groove is just below (Nov. 2013).
Deep inside Iron Messiah…wait…(Nov. 2013).
Shirley in one of the chimneys that make up the middle three-ish pitches of Iron Messiah (Nov. 2013).
Shirley topping out on P7 (our 5?) of Iron Messiah (Nov. 2013).
Starting up the (our) final pitch of Iron Messiah – easy corner to a series of 5.10- moves at the exit (Nov. 2013).
Shirley on pitch 9 (per McAfee guidebook or our pitch 6) of Iron Messiah. Crux of the route? Probably (Nov. 2013).
Looking down-canyon (towards Springdale) from top of pitch 9 (our 6) of Iron Messiah (Nov. 2013).
Shirley rapping down from Iron Messiah. This is the “Groove Pitch” (P3; Nov. 2013).
View up-canyon from Iron Messiah. I think this is the Great White Throne (Nov. 2013).
The Virgin River and the start of the fall colors in Zion Canyon (Nov. 2013).
The opening hand-sized splitter on The Headache (Nov. 2013).
Pitch 1 topout on The Headache (Nov. 2013).
Leading pitch 2 – thin hands in a corner to a funky flared chimney stemming to an easier than it looks splitter through a small roof. A FUN pitch (Nov. 2013).
Shirley topping out on pitch 2 of The Headache (Nov. 2013).
Leading the third and final pitch of The Headache – intermittent difficulties to the crux moves right before the anchor (Nov. 2013).
Somebody enjoying the third and final pitch of The Headache (Nov. 2013).
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of The Headache. This is the crux of the route (probably; Nov. 2013).
Hiking back to the car after a great weekend of climbing in Zion (Nov. 2013).
Climbers from Tucson on pitch 2 of The Headache (Nov. 2013).
Go back to Zion.