ZE Day Two | chossclimbers.com

Go back to Zenyatta Entrada.
Go back to ZE Day One.

Zenyatta Entrada.

Expecting a fuller day 2, we got to the base of ZE after 8am once again following the arduous approach. The wind was trying to outdo its performance from Saturday with more sustained blowing and bigger gusts. We jugged the lines which pleasantly enough held. For breakfast, I ordered 15 feet of C2-ish blown out scars to a bolt, to a penji, to an easy crack. And then we were looking up at what reports call the “C3 roof”. We were trying to find a stance for Shirley that would allow her to avoid the human meat rocket (that’s me!! That’s me!!) should I fuck up at the crux thinness. The going was thin and funky but I was still only within a bone-breaking distance of the belay ledge (not a “lights out” kind of a fall) when I got some small but positive RP’s and small nuts. Like a typical gumby, I supplemented lack of skill and nerve with excess of purchasable technology in the form of countless aid screamers. An interesting hybrid placement under a mini-roof, then a few more thin RP’s (…technically mid-sized RP’s as they go from #1 to #6, but “thin” gives more drama) and I was singing “Hallelujah” at the bolts under the big roof.

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Zenyatta Entrada.

Quick traverse on drilled angles and soon I was watching Shirley swinging out from under the roof as she cleaned the pitch. It should be noted that this route is a real draw for crowds down below: some choose to drive by and yell while hanging out the window while others stop and take photos. [And once in a blue moon, a kind sould will send you some of those GREAT shots from below – thank you Adam!!] I was waiting to get a drive-by flash next. Did not happen. The last pitch went quickly and smoothly as it has been restored to its FA condition in interest of preserving the stone (a great effort by some very dedicated and hard working people – see below): a touch of C2 followed by a reachy bolt ladder. It’s not supposed to be a bolt ladder but with my 6’7” height and top stepping I did not have to do any hooking or other funkiness. Sitting on the formation’s sloping shoulder just below the summit I was being sandblasted by relentless wind that kept coiled rope nearly horizontal. Shirley arrived and we hiked over to the back of the summit “bulb” and did a quick pitch to the top (A0). Unlike Saturday, the horizon was cloudy and LaSals were nearly invisible. We first thought that a rainstorm was about to roll over us but then realized it’s only a dust storm. We did not linger as we were expecting an epic rappel. Did I mention it was windy? With care and diligence we avoided any rope snags and reached the ground smoothly however.

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Zenyatta Entrada.

Quick drive to town and soon we were putting away all-you-can pizza at the what-chummacall-it place on the main drag along with bad-but-cold-so-who-gives-a-shit beer. Salt Lake City again and back to work Monday morning. I have to say that ZE was the best aid route thus far for me but I always say profound things like this on a Monday morning after…

Photos

Shirley back at P1 belay station on the morning jug up (April 2008).

Shirley jugging the fixed lines in the morning (April 2008).

Starting the lead of the second half of pitch 3 of Zenyatta Entrada (April 2008).

Looking back at Shirley at the mid-pitch 3 belay station (April 2008).

Past the pendulum point on the same pitch (April 2008).

Another looksee back at Shirley (April 2008).

Making progress on pitch 3 (April 2008).

Leading the second half of pitch 3 belayed by Shirley (April 2008).

Pitch 3 (April 2008).

A minor bulge (April 2008).

Looking back at Shirley (April 2008).

Shirley jugging up to the top of pitch 3 proper (April 2008).

Shirley jugging pitch 3 (April 2008).

Starting the crux fourth pitch of Zenyatta Entrada (April 2008).

Pitch 4 (April 2008).

Looking back at Shirley (April 2008).

Pitch 4. Leading the C3 crux pitch of Zenyatta-Entrada – a tiered roof/dihedral system above some ledges. This is a great position with the entire route below your feet once you turn the roof (April 2008).