Go back to Zenyatta Entrada.
Tower of Babel.
We’ve been wanting to climb
Zenyatta Entrada (IV 5.4 C3) for a few years but nerves, weather, opportunity never came together at the right instant of time and space until last weekend. Taking advantage of Southwest’s airfare slashes (a poor aircraft inspection record becoming public might have induced this – I dunno?), we flew down to Salt Lake last Friday night. Due to late arrival in town and our laziness, we got to the base of the line after 10am following the arduous 90 second approach. The weather was sunny but there were strong gusts of wind. At this point we were pretty sure we’d be fixing the first couple pitches and returning for more on Sunday.
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Zenyatta Entrada.
The first two pitches offer lower angle climbing and positive nutting and so they went relatively quickly (mostly C1 I’d guess). Third pitch is where things got steeper, thinner and less positive (small nuts, largish RP’s mostly). The going was fairly secure until I came to within 10 feet of the intermediate belay anchor. Well in sight of the bolts and chains, I would spend the next hour trying to put together a house of cards to get my fat ass up this final short stretch. With a long string of questionable gear below me, I did a fare share of praying as my attempts at hooking the section resulted in small flakes blowing off. Similar results were obtained when trying to nut a sandy looking groove which would be nearly out of reach had I not been able to string three nuts together to extend my range. All for nothing. A half engaged #2 Camalot in a blown out pin nest combined with some well-timed updraft (you know, levitation…) and I finally clipped the anchor. Thoughts of finishing up to top of P3 proper were nixed and so we fixed the ropes and came down trying to secure the lines from abrasion the best we could. Did I mention the windy conditions?
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Tower of Babel.
As it was early afternoon, Shirley and I went into Moab and did the tourist thing: first we had a couple beers at McStiff’s and then a couple margaritas at the Mexican joint, followed by more margaritas with dinner in the evening. We carb-loaded in anticipation of having to do the arduous approach again. At this point the thoughts of wind + Entrada abrading the shit out of our ropes were almost out of my mind. We headed back to our discount motel in Green River where the sounds of a trucker next door doing his share to support the rest stop economy lulled us to sleep.
Photos
Starting up Zenyatta Entrada. This is the opening C1 pitch (April 2008).
Making progress on pitch 1 (April 2008).
Pitch 1 (April 2008).
Leading pitch 1 belayed by Shirley (April 2008).
Pitch 1 (April 2008).
Pitch 1 (April 2008).
Nearing the first belay on Zenyatta Entrada (April 2008).
View from the first belay. Organ Towers are visible (April 2008).
More views from the first belay. Argon Tower is just right of center and The Three Gossips are on the right (April 2008).
Shirley jugging the first pitch (April 2008).
Sheep Rock (April 2008).
Shirley arriving at the first belay (April 2008).
Starting up pitch 2 of Zenyatta Entrada (April 2008).
Shirley at the first belay station (April 2008).
Pitch 2 (April 2008).
Looking back at Shirley (April 2008).
Pitch 2 (April 2008).
Pitch 2 (April 2008).
Another view of Shirley belaying me from a nice ledge atop pitch 1 (April 2008).
Pitch 2 (April 2008).
Leading pitch 2 (April 2008).
More pitch 2 (April 2008).
Argon Tower (left) and The Three Gossips (April 2008).
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Zenyatta Entrada (April 2008).
Shirley jugging pitch 2 (April 2008).
Pitch 2 (April 2008).
Shirley arriving at the second belay (April 2008).
Starting the lead of pitch 3 (April 2008).
Shirley belaying me on pitch 3 (April 2008).
Starting the lead of pitch 3 (April 2008).
Pitch 3, C2+. I thought this was the crux of the route (April 2008).
Very handy in the desert (April 2008).
One more look back at Shirley (April 2008).
Pitch 3 (April 2008).
Nicely exposed. Shirley’s belay seat is hanging atop pitch 1 (April 2008).
Pitch 3 (April 2008).
Views from belay (April 2008).
Fixing the lines and heading down for beer (April 2008).
Shirley packing up at base of Zenyatta-Entrada on Saturday afternoon. The two Organ Towers and LaSal Mountains form the backdrop (April 2008).
Looking up at the route from the base. Our ropes are fixed up to pitch 3 (April 2008).
The long slog back to the car (April 2008).
Never mind, there it is. Tower Of Babel in the background. Zenyatta-Entrada climbs the sunny prow of the formation (~600 feet; April 2008).
Another one of the route (April 2008).
Go to ZE Day Two.
Go back to Zenyatta Entrada.