Primrose Dihedrals

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Saturday

Beautiful desert flora at the base of Optimator Wall (Apr. 2012).

A late Friday night commute to the desert and a short day one at the Optimator Wall of Indian Creek. I led the decent Hayduke Lives! but screwed up on the start (the tips crack below and inline with the upper hand crack is not the ticket…at least not a 5.10 one I think) and some C1 moves were employed to reach the pretty hand splitter above. Shirley led the next door Neat which was indeed pretty good. Called it a day as we were sleepy, hungry, and generally felt more or less ready for Primrose. Not to mention the cliff was crowded.

Sunday

The north face of Moses (tallest one) during our morning approach (Apr. 2012).

An early Sunday morning drive from Green River into Canyonlands NP. We’ve been in Taylor Canyon before, twice in fact. First time around we realized that we forgot to bring water bottles with us & ended up bailing to Arches and doing Sheep Rock. Second time around, the 5.11+ proper start defeated our attempts and we ended up bailing to Moab Brewery and doing pints. This time around, we hiked up to Moses’ backside where Shirley started us off by leading the 5.8 entry traverse into Primrose Dihedrals. We had agreed that she would lead the first block of 3 pitches and I’d finish the upper and wider part of the route. We both thought that pitch 2 was hard (& I have no excuses as I was on top rope…”taaaake!”). In fact, with the 5.8 variation on pitch 1 and A0-ing of The Ear, pitch 2 was the crux. Shirley finished her leads with the fun pitch 3: an airy downclimb and a photogenic traverse/re-climb. With a big smile she handed me the rack and I headed up into the dreamy pitch 4: like The Incredible Hand Crack but for large-handed folk (#3 Camalot). We then linked pitches 5 (pretty good climbing) and 6 (The Ear), the latter of which went at untarnished A0. An easy chimney and a bouldery mantle put us on the incredible summit of Moses. We followed some previous mountainproject beta and rapped the route which involved two short single rope raps to reach the top of The Ear pitch (should’ve done one direct) followed by one very long (& mostly free air) double rope rap to the top of the third pitch. Another double rope rap put us on the ground. Hugs, kisses and two hours later we were tossing down some Mex food in Moab . This was our 27th desert tower and probably one of the very best.

Monday

Shirley leading an Unnamed 5.10+ route on the Blue Gramma Cliff (just right of the Blue Gramma route). #0.75 to #1 Camalots interrupted by a wide slot (Apr. 2012).

Next day, despite some ambitious plans we woke up late and ended up heading back to Indian Creek where Blue Gramma Cliff (with its 5 minute approach) beckoned to us. Short but grade-per-grade not necessarily easier routes. We did the Mexican Unicorn (fun!), Dawn Of An Age (pretty fun), and an Unnamed 5.10+ (less fun…thankfully Shirley led this #0.75-1 thin f…er). We had neglected Moab for four years. Think the trip re-stoked the tower fire in us. Hope to be back sooner.

Photos

Standard desert rack - prepping for our return to the Utah desert (Apr. 2012).

Saturday

Shirley taping up at the base of the Optimator Wall in Indian Creek (Apr. 2012).

Leading the nice Hayduke Lives! (5.10+) on the Optimator Wall (Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading Neat below the first mini-roof (Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading the excellent Neat (5.10) on the Optimator Wall (Apr. 2012).

Shirley milking a stem rest stance on Neat (5.10). Hayduke Lives! route is just right of Shirley (Apr. 2012).

Beautiful desert flora at the base of Optimator Wall (Apr. 2012).

Sunday

The north face of Moses (tallest one) during our morning approach (Apr. 2012).

Shirley starting the lead of the alternate pitch 1 of Primrose Dihedrals - a long horizontal traverse (Apr. 2012).

Following the variation pitch 1 (5.8) of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Primrose Dihedrals. With the 5.8 start pitch and A0-ing of The Ear, this was the crux pitch of the day (Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading pitch 2 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Shirley on the hard pull move to bypass the small roof on pitch 2 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Someone trying to will his fat fingers into the blue TCU crack on pitch 2 of Primrose Dihedrals (on TR!! Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading the fun pitch 3 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Yours truly belaying Shirley on the third pitch of Primrose Dihedrals. Zeus (foreground) and Aphrodite towers are in the background (Apr. 2012).

Shirley giving the carabiner a taste test to ensure quality of the aluminum (Apr. 2012).

Following pitch 3 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Starting the lead of pitch 4 of Primrose Dihedrals - the gorgeous hand crack looms above (Apr. 2012).

Higher on pitch 4 of Primrose Dihedrals - an amazing hand crack (#3 Camalot size) that is easier than it looks thanks to some incuts for feet (Apr. 2012).

The best section of the best pitch on Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Shirley topping out on pitch 4 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Aiding The Ear pitch (#6) which we combined with the previous pitch (Apr. 2012).

Shirley following pitch 5 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Shirley finishing the aid of The Ear pitch (Apr. 2012).

Shirley on the summit of Moses with the splendor of Taylor Canyon (and the trailhead) in the background (Apr. 2012).

Summit register on Moses...rules indeed that Primrose Dihedrals does (Apr. 2012).

Shirley on the summit (Apr. 2012).

Shirley on the long and mostly free air rap down pitches 6, 5, and 4 of Primrose Dihedrals (Apr. 2012).

Moses (tall) and the Thracian Mare (short). Primrose Dihedrals climbs the opposite (SE) face of Moses (Apr. 2012).

Shirley admiring our Moses after the climb of Primrose Dihedrals (over some Doritos). Thracian Mare is the stocky formation to the right of Moses. Zeus is immediately left of Moses with Aphrodite further left (Apr. 2012).

Monday

Shirley at the base of the Blue Gramma Cliff in Indian Creek (Apr. 2012).

Leading the short but sweet (#3 to #4 Camalots sort of sweetness) Mexican Unicorn (5.9+) route on the Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

Leading the very nice Mexican Unicorn on the Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

Starting up the nice Dawn Of An Age (5.10) on Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

Leading the short Dawn Of An Age (5.10) on the Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading an Unnamed 5.10+ route on the Blue Gramma Cliff (just right of the Blue Gramma route). #0.75 to #1 Camalots interrupted by a wide slot (Apr. 2012).

Shirley leading an Unnamed 5.10+ route on the Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

Shirley finishing up the lead of an Unnamed 5.10+ route on the Blue Gramma Cliff (Apr. 2012).

The beauty of the Utah desert (Apr. 2012).

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