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The Words
Shirley topping out on pitch 2.
Steins Pillar.
Despite a marginal forecast, we were able to convince our friends Andrew and Ye to join us for some Oregon chossaneering in the foothills of the Ochocos on Halloween. We climbed the Southwest Face route as two teams of two (11 years and one day – exactly – after Shirley and I have done the Northeast Face aid route). I gotta say that it’s a pretty stellar line! Great position on the face of a proud tower and with just a touch of marginal rock. Some shenanigans (for me) on the overhanging, monkey jugs of pitch 3 but a blast nonetheless especially given the company. Back in very rainy Portland in the evening. Thanks to our companions for providing the drive for us to re-discover the joys of local adventure climbing.
The Video
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The Pics
Ye, Shirley and Andrew getting ready to head out from the trailhead (Oct. 2015).
Ye rolling his special burrito at the Steins trailhead (Oct. 2015).
Starting up pitch 1 of the Southwest Face route on Steins (Oct. 2015).
More pitch 1. Photo by Ye.
We combined pitches 1 and 2 to avoid a shitty hanging belay atop P1. Pitch 1 by the way is a very fun finger crack (Oct. 2015).
Linking pitch 1 and 2 (Oct. 2015).
Shirley on pitch 2 (Oct. 2015).
Shirley on pitch 2 of Southwest Face (Oct. 2015).
Shirley nearing the final traverse on pitch 2; Ye and Andrew are waiting to get started at the base (Oct. 2015).
Shirley topping out on pitch 2….is that flake solid? Sure it is!! Pull away!!
Starting pitch 3 belayed by Shirley (Oct. 2015).
Shirley belaying me on the 3rd pitch; Ye is launching into the second (Oct. 2015).
Ye on the crux of pitch 2 (combined with the first pitch).
The bolts end and you’re plugging some micros in a small dihedral. Ye enjoying his lead (Oct. 2015).
Ye midway through the lead of pitch 2 (blue jacket); I’m nearing the pitch 3 belay with Shirley belaying (red jacket).
Looking down towards Mill Creek Road and the farms (Oct. 2015).
Shirley starting up pitch 3. Ye’s just below at the belay (Oct. 2015).
Andrew rocking pitch 2 (red jacket) belayed by Ye (Oct. 2015).
Shirley on the steep third pitch of Southwest Face. Ye is belaying Andrew atop P2 and Andrew is launching onto the face climbing that is pitch 2 (Oct. 2015).
Somewhere on that formation is our camera clicking away in time-lapse mode (Oct. 2015).
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 – a steep (hard for me), gym-monkey type climbing (Oct. 2015).
Leading the final (4th) pitch of the Southwest Face – nice exposure, easier climbing (Oct. 2015).
View back towards Shirley at the belay (Oct. 2015).
Leading the final pitch belayed by Shirley. Andrew and Ye are at the belay atop pitch 2 (Oct. 2015).
Though the Northeast Face route is (used to be?) replete with home-made gear, this was the only relic we encountered on the upgraded Southwest Face route (Oct. 2015).
Shirley topping out on the 4th and final pitch.
Shirley nearing the summit (Oct. 2015).
Twin Pillars as seen from the summit of Steins Pillar some 10+ miles away (with the aid of a 30X optical zoom).
Click for high res. Ye (blue) is leading pitch 3 belayed by Andrew (red). Shirley (red) and I (orange) are on the summit (Oct. 2015).
Ye arriving on the summit.
Ye and Andrew celebrating Halloween atop Steins (Oct. 30th, 2015).
Steins Pillar crew celebrating with a hip flask of Buffalo Trace (Halloween 2015).
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