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Summary
View down from the start of P2 bolt ladder. Shirley's belaying and Blondie down below is whoring herself to a random passer-by (March 2007).
On Saturday, Shirley & I climbed Dolf’s Dihedral route (with a direct start which trades a chossy but easier terrain for solid but 5.10- flake on the lower half). After that we did the Perpetual Motion (5.9). Both trad obscurities at the base of Monkey Face. Was dismayed to find the top anchor pins on the latter lying on the ledge near the top of the route. Cost us some gear to set up a top anchor. On Sunday (drizzly), we climbed West Face(C1+) of Monkey Face route on March 24, 2007. A couple bolts to get off the ground, then a couple of flared pin scars leading to bomber nutting and more bolts near the top. Pitches 2 and 3 (which we combined) are a bolt ladder. I recall a tricky reach on pitch 3 where a screamer was used as an arm extension to reach the bolt. Couple more bolt ladder moves out of the West Side Cave and then an easy scramble put us on the summit. A nice climb mostly for learning aid (pitch 1) and the position (pitches 2 and 3).
Photos
Dolf’s Dihedral Direct (5.10a)
Trying to pry loose the flake on the direct start of Dolf's Dihedral (5.10a, March 24, 2007).
Leading the direct start of Dolf's Dihedral route (March 2007).
Higher on Dolf's Dihedral (Direct) route. This direct start is what sets the 10a rating.
Blondie admiring mommy's climb of Dolf's Dihedral route on Monkey Face (March 2007).
Shirley chimneying on the Dolf's Dihedral Direct route (5.10a).
Shirley pulling around the huge flake on the Dolf's Dihedral Direct (5.10a) route.
Shirley following the nice but shot 5.8 crack on upper half of Dolf's Dihedral route (March 2007).
Shirley rapping off the Dolf's Dihedral route. The direct variation (5.10a) follows the huge flake on the left; the standard route (5.8) climbs the choss on the right. Both finish up the nice but short thin hands crack (March 2007).
Perpetual Motion (5.9)
Shirley starting up Perpetual Motion (5.9).
Shirley leading the chunky start of Perpetual Motion (5.9).
Shirley leading Perpetual Motion (5.9) on Monkey Face. This is below the crux (March 2007).
Shirley approaching the crux of Perpetual Motion (5.9) which she did not like (loose) and so lowered off & let me finish the lead (March 2007).
Leading Perpetual Motion (5.9) at the base of Monkey Face.
Yours truly leading the upper part of Perpetual Motion (5.9).
West Face (C1+)
Unknown climber walking a slackline from Monkey's mouth cave to the rim (March 2007).
Leading P1 of West Face of Monkey Face. C2 section (small nuts & RP's in a thin crack with some scars) of pitch is just above (March 2007).
Leading P1 of West Face (5.12 A0 or C2) - few bolts to C2 pin scars to C1 crack to more bolts. Shirley's belaying. That C2 section would be scary to do free on lead. This line climbs the tallest aspect of Monkey Face at ~350 feet (March 2007).
Shirley following P1 of West Face on Monkey Face (March 2007).
5.17 rating is courtesy of Alan Watt's guidebook. West Face line goes free at 5.12 except for start of P1 (5 bolt ladder) and the whole of P2 (in the photo). It did not look harder than .17b to me so you go get after it tiger!!! Photo taken March 2007. PS Yes, there's a rip on my ass.
View down from the start of P2 bolt ladder. Shirley's belaying and Blondie down below is whoring herself to a random passer-by (March 2007).
Higher on pitch 2 bolt ladder of West Face.
Looking back at Shirley from the bolt ladder on pitch 2 of West Face.
Nearing the top of pitch 2 of West Face.
West Side Cave on Monkey Face pillar with a view towards Smith Rock Group. This is about 60 feet below the summit. Plenty of flat space up here though overnighting in the park is technically illegal... This photo here shows the route overlay including the location of the cave: here (March 2007).
Short ladder out of the West Side Cave on P4 (our P3)of West Face route. Hard to believe that a variation of the ladder goes free at (only!!) 11b - high ape index seems prerequisite (March 2007).
Shirley topping out on Monkey Face via low 5th scramble on backside of Monkey's head. Kiss Of The Lepers Buttress is in background (March 2007).
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