Prince Of Darkness

Go back to Red Rocks.
Go back to City Of Rocks.

Red Rocks

Red Rocks.

We’ve had a few trips out recently where flying was required and so Blondie was forced to sit those out at the doggie motel. No more! Given the pricey airline tickets, Turkey Day Weekend was going to be an all around family-fun time! With a stack of audio books (Michael Connelly’s crime novels deliver as usual), a thermos filled with quality Portland coffee and a dozen microbrews we hit I84 Wednesday night after work heading east into the wilderness. Standard push…Portland holiday traffic, Baker City 1st car refuel/pee break, Boise coffee refuel, a bit of sleep somewhere, Salt Lake City coffee refuel, and finally Las Vegas a short 1200 miles later.

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Prince Of Darkness

POD.

Day one plans take us out to the Black Velvet Canyon. Thought we got up early but there is already a ton of cars at the trailhead. Sheeeet. We grab our junk & hike in quickly. Blondie loves this boulder hopping in desert washes – just as I think a 3rd class step is too steep/tall for her, she surprises us with her canine climbing skill. We arrive at the base of the class 4 step and see a party on pitch two of Turkeys and one on Sour Mash…but that’s it! We gear up and start flaking ropes at the base of Prince Of Darkness…before we’re done, no fewer than five parties show up including 2 or 3 aiming for POD as well. We knew the route is popular but damn! Things work out great though as most parties scatter onto other lines including Rock Warrior & Fiddler. There’s one party behind us & I offer to let them pass if I’m really dragging ass on pitch two. They decline and later end up bailing from pitch 2 or 3. Shirley leads pitch one & I do two. Things are thin here but I’m slowly working my way up as…damn, seems I z-clipped myself – I’m a f…ing moron! Shirley is not having a great lead day & I end up leading the rest of the pitches. Knowing that the route has a ton of hanging belays, we’re both sporting our fat big wall climbing harnesses. It’s almost like sitting in a recliner, now only if my toes would stop hurting. I do not really find the climbing monotonous – in fact, I find it very satisfying. There’s a mix of crimping and some smeary slab moves. Great fun! Somewhere midway up the route, I hear my name called out…I look up and after a short delay, my brain finally registers that we know the guys on Turkeys next door: Paul (with whom we’ve climbed The Predator tower in Moab) and Brad (with whom we drank beer afterwards). We make beer plans for later that evening. The short crux goes well and in retrospect I think it’s easier than pitch 2 (maybe it’s a height thing?). We arrive on Turkeyland Ledge together with Brad and Paul & start rapping down. As we’re hiking out in the coming dusk, we see headlamps light up high on BV Wall and on Frogland…glad it’s not us. Beer plans turn to margarita plans somewhere on the hike out.

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Red Rocks

Red Rocks.

Day two starts out late and lazy (& a touch hung over in my case). Our fingertips are sore from crimping and we’re thumbing the book looking for something easier over a nice breakfast. By the time we reach the trailhead, we find it overflowing with cars…shit. Hike to the base of the chosen climb only to find parties on every pitch and a line at the base. The non-recommended start option is also occupied. Oh well – we got what we came for. That evening finds us at the City Of Rocks in Idaho .

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City Of Rocks

City Of Rocks…ccccold.

A chilly morning greets us and though the sun is out, the thermometer says 20F…we’ve come this far. Make our way to Elephant Rock and pick the sunniest face. With numb fingers and toes, the crimpy sport line, Just Say No (5.9), is more challenging than it looked from below. We spend the rest of the morning hiking around and scoping lines for spring. Have never been to The City this late in the season. Ten brief hours later we’re back home in Portland .

Photos

Red Rocks

Back to Red Rocks (Nov. 2009).

Prince Of Darkness

Shirley leading pitch 1 which is shared with DOWT (Nov. 2009).

Prince Of Darkness

Starting up pitch 2 of Prince Of Darkness – let the thin edging commence (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Making progress (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Nearing the second belay (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Prince Of Darkness (Nov. 2009).

Prince Of Darkness

More of pitch 2 with its excellent edging (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley arriving at the second belay (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Leading pitch 3 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Closer look at pitch 3 edges (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley on pitch 3 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

More of pitch 3 (Nov. 2009).

Prince Of Darkness

Arriving at the third belay (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Leading pitch 4 – look at that beautiful rock (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Brad & Paul at the 5th (?) belay on Dream Of Wild Turkeys route. Photo taken from Prince Of Darkness (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

More pitch 4 action (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley nearing the fourth belay (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Pitch 4 top-out (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Starting up pitch 5 of Prince Of Darkness (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Higher on pitch 5 of POD (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley on pitch 5 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Pitch 5 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Our neighbors on Rock Warrior (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Top of pitch 5 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Starting up the final and crux pitch (#6) of Prince Of Darkness (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

And done with the crux (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Shirley on the easy upper part of pitch 6 (Nov. 2009).


Prince Of Darkness

Pitch 6 (Nov. 2009).

Red Rocks

Whatever we had planned that morning turned out to be crowded (Nov. 2009).


Red Rocks

Looking up at Birdland (Nov. 2009).


Red Rocks

So we decided to start heading home (Nov. 2009).


Red Rocks

Our sweet girl soaking up the sunshine (Nov. 2009).


Red Rocks

OK, let’s go (Nov. 2009).


City Of Rocks

City Of Rocks – low 20s (Nov. 2009).


City Of Rocks

Blondie and Shirley on the short approach to Elephant Rock (Nov. 2009).


City Of Rocks

Shirley and Blondie trying to psyche-up for the route (Nov. 2009).


City Of Rocks

Blondie at the base of Just Say No on Elephant Rock (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Leading Just Say No (5.9) on Elephant Rock in the freezing cold City Of Rocks, Idaho (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Leading Just Say No (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Just Say No (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Shirley starting up the route (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Higher on the pitch (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

Setting up the rap (Nov. 2009).


Just Say No

A very cold City Of Rocks (Nov. 2009).


City Of Rocks

OK, let’s go home (Nov. 2009).

Go back to Red Rocks.
Go back to City Of Rocks.