Power Failure And The Gobbler | chossclimbers.com

Power Failure.

Short night of sleep was offset with a late wake up call and a long breakfast (lunch?) at Einstein’s Bagels. We thought about the seven pitch Unimpeachable Groping but upon the 2pm arrival at the base, settled on the three pitch Power Failure next door. I got the odds and Shirley dispatched the crux pitch: a short, thin crack to a slabby step right followed by easier terrain. A very nice route in a small package! Two hours later we were flipping through the guidebook over some Vietnamese noodle soup. Love that Vegas climbing experience: no need for greasy, shitty diner food after climbing! You have your pick of affordable dining options. Choices were made, alarms were set…and promptly ignored. Maybe the continuing family feud in the motel room next door that kept us up most of the night might have been to blame…

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The Gobbler.

Anyway, out the door we went a brief 4 hours past the crack of dawn. “Yes – breakfast sounds good”. Getting to the crags by noon tends to narrow down your options. We remembered admiring The Gobbler a few times before from the base and so made it our goal for the day. No less than 10 cars at the Black Velvet trailhead reminded us that it was spring break season…oh well. Many parties on the classic lines – though we’d see many bail a pitch or two up after realizing just how cold things were on the shady walls and with a breeze blowing through the canyon. Shirley led the beautiful looking first pitch: a series of face traverses on good, positive rails that are mostly invisible from below (making things appear harder than the advertised 5.9). I took the second pitch whose rating is set by a single (highly height/reach-dependent) move in the chimney of sorts. Shirley did not care for this pitch (did I mention reach-dependent?) but led the third beautifully. Now that one seemed pretty damn thin for its 10a rating! I was happy to have the TR as my big clunky shoes searched for footholds while my fat stubby fingers were fishing for incuts…Great stuff!! Some of the best Mexican food (& margaritas) we’ve ever tasted finished off the day.

Photos

Leading pitch 1 of Power Failure (March 2009).

Nearing the first belay (March 2009).

Shirley starting up Power Failure (March 2009).

And arriving at the first belay (March 2009).

Shirley starting the lead of pitch 2 of Power Failure (March 2009).

Shirley leading the crux on pitch 2 of Power Failure (5.10-) on Ginger Buttress (March 2009).

More pitch 2 action (March 2009).

Shirley leading pitch 2 of Power Failure (5.10-) belayed by yours truly. She’s almost done with the crux moves. Bridge Mountain in the background (March 2009).

Shirley arriving at the second belay (March 2009).

Following pitch 2 of Power Failure on Ginger Buttress. This is above the route’s crux (March 2009).

Shirley at the second belay on Power Failure (March 2009).

Leading P3 of Power Failure (5.10-) on Ginger Buttress (March 2009).

Shirley at the belay atop P2 of Power Failure (5.10-) on Ginger Buttress (March 2009).

Shirley topping out on the third and final pitch of Power Failure (5.10b) on Ginger Buttress (March 2009).

Views from Power Failure (March 2009).

Shirley starting up the first pitch of The Gobbler (March 2009).

More of Shirley on pitch 1 with another party on pitch 2 above (March 2009).

Past the crux (March 2009).

Shirley leading pitch 1 of The Gobbler (5.10-) on Black Velvet Wall (March 2009).

Almost at the first belay (March 2009).

Following the pretty first pitch of The Gobbler – three little gems these pitches they are!

Leading pitch 2 of The Gobbler on Black Velvet Wall. They guys above went for Fiddler On The Roof (March 2009).

Leading pitch 2 of The Gobbler belayed by Shirley (March 2009).

Higher on pitch 2 (March 2009).

Shirley following pitch 2 of The Gobbler on Black Velvet Wall (March 2009).

Nearing the second belay (March 2009).

Shirley starting pitch 3 of The Gobbler (March 2009).

More of pitch 2 (March 2009).

Shirley leading the thin and fun (esp. on TR) third pitch of The Gobbler (March 2009).

Nearing the belay (March 2009).

Yours truly following the beautiful third pitch of The Gobbler….in fact, all 3 pitches of this one are great (March 2009).

Shirley rapping off (March 2009).

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