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Voie Abert.
On our final day of climbing, we hiked into the Gorge and started up the Voie Abert. What used to be mostly a trad line has recently been retro-bolted and so now only a very light rack might still be useful (particularly for the last pitch). The climb was in the shade and offered the familiar crack and dihedral systems. Perhaps it’s softly rated or the style is more natural to us but the 6b rating felt soft…in other words, it was just a very fun outing. Also, the position was quite spectacular climbing the prow of a pillar that protrudes from the wall of the gorge. We topped out, enjoyed the views and quickly hiked back down for some tea and cold watermelon at one of the many vendor stalls at the mouth of the gorge.
Photos
Hiking to the Gorge again (May 2017).
The village where we stayed at the mouth of the Todra Gorge (May 2017).
Pilier du Couchant in Todra Gorge; home of Voie Abert and Chibania (May 2017).
Starting up the first pitch of Voie Abert on Pilier du Couchant (May 2017).
Views of the Gorge from low on Voie Abert (May 2017).
Leading pitch 2 (May 2017).
Alfonso from Spain rope soloing the same pitch (May 2017).
Topping out on pitch 3 (May 2017).
Leading pitch 4 which is probably the crux (May 2017).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 4 (I think) of Voie Abert (May 2017).
Pitch 5 perhaps (May 2017).
Shirley following the same pitch…probably (May 2017).
Pitch 6 perhaps (May 2017).
Shirley topping out on pitch 6 (May 2017).
Views of Todra Gorge from high on Voie Abert (May 2017).
Shirley topping out on pitch 8 (May 2017).
Leading the last pitch (our 9th) of Voie Abert (May 2017).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead – cool belay ledge (May 2017).
Topping out on the technical portion of the route. A bit of scrambling from there is followed by a hike down (May 2017).
Shirley on the last pitch of Voie Abert (May 2017).
Starting the friendly and quick hike down to hot tea and cold watermelon (May 2017).
Enjoying some watermelon after our climb (May 2017).
The closed down guesthouse inside the Gorge – rock fall issues apparently (May 2017).
Shirley soaking up the Todra Gorge – touristy but the climbing was good (May 2017).
A friendly resident of the Gorge (May 2017).
…who is not opposed to being scratched (May 2017).
Nomadic herders brining their goats to market through Todra Gorge (May 2017).
Todra Gorge crew. Left to right (after us): Hadi, Daniel (Germany), Alfonso (Spain), Abdul and his friend (May 2017).
Sheep on a sightseeing tour of the Gorge (May 2017).
Rug shopping in Abdul’s father’s shop (May 2017).