Parmakkaya | chossclimbers.com

Go back to Turkey
Go back to Aladaglar.

Parmakkaya.

Turned out that Recep had some connections with those park rangers and we were able to have the gate opened for us (eventually…) the following morning. This last bit of road was very rough and so once again we exploited our trusty Opel Astra’s robust off-road capabilities. The approach hike to the base of Parmakkaya took about 2.5 hours but the alpine beauty of the high country made it fairly painless. The spire itself is quite a sight: a steep and slender, ~200 meter tall (depending on the aspect) finger sitting at the head of a valley. With the exception of its original, Classic Route, all other lines start at French 7a or above. In fact, the thing is so steep that it was hard to discern where a 5.10ish route might actually go. We finally found it on the backside of the spire though it was still pretty intimidating looking. The line is four pitches long. The first one is a warmup and a foreshadowing of things to come. For a historic route, you’d expect a lot more fixed pins and other assorted hardware. The second pitch was also relatively light on fixed pins and it was hard to discern where to go. Not to mention, the limestone can be hard to read: what is solid vs. what will come down on you and your partner below. The rock is also not well cracked and so it was a lively lead – not too hard but somewhat memorable. The third pitch follows a very exposed and overhanging spine of the spire. It’s the technical crux but not the mental one as the route is obvious and well festooned with fixed gear; and even offers up a decent crack for pro. The fourth pitch is trivial and puts you below the summit fin which you and your partner take turns traversing a cheval style. The descent is only two, double rope raps but has a reputation (per guidebook) for snagging the lines. We made it down without any hiccups. I should mention that we did not see a soul since passing the national park gate in the morning. A very good climb! We were back in the car in the late afternoon.

Photos

On the morning drive into Emli Valley – the jumping off point for Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Shirley on the hike up to Parmakkaya (August 2020).

And there she is! First sighting though it’s still a while to go (August 2020).

Beautiful Aladaglar (August 2020),

Shirley and Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Parmakkaya or Finger Rock. The Classic Route climbs the opposite face (August 2020).

A scenic spot for a union break (August 2020).

Traversing to the backside notch of Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Shirley and the views (August 2020).

Shirley trying to spot a 5.10 way up the steep finger (August 2020).

Looking for the start of the Classic Route (August 2020).

Found it (August 2020).

Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 1 of Parmakkaya’s Classic Route (August 2020).

Higher on pitch 1 (August 2020).

More pitch 1 (August 2020).

Shirley on the first pitch (August 2020).

Part of a drilled angle anchor atop P1 of the Classic Route. In fact, I should’ve traversed 6 meters to the right from here (August 2020).

Shirley higher on pitch 1 of the Classic Route (August 2020).

Shirley arriving at our first belay (August 2020).

On the short traverse to the proper pitch 1 belay (August 2020).

Shirley on our mini pitch 2. Essentially moving the belay some six meters to the right (August 2020).

Arriving at the proper pitch 1 belay. This one is hanging but pitch 2 (our version) meandered enough so that we would not have been happy with even more rope drag (August 2020).

Starting up pitch 2 (August 2020).

The book implies a straight line. The sporadic fixed bank suggested otherwise. A balance of looking for more solid rock and some protection opportunities (August 2020).

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of the Classic Route (August 2020).

Shirley on the mental crux of the route (i.e pitch 2; August 2020).

Pitch 2 anchor (August 2020).

Pitch 2 (August 2020).

Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 of the Classic Route (August 2020).

Almost there on pitch 2 (August 2020).

Shirley arriving on a nice ledge that is the top of pitch 2 (August 2020).

Parmakkaya

Leading the beautifully exposed pitch 3 of the Classic Route (August 2020).

Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 3 (August 2020).

Pitch 3 (August 2020).

A closer look (August 2020).

The limestone looks chossy at times but I’m guessing it’s been well cleaned off over the years (August 2020).

Past the difficulties on pitch 3 (August 2020).

Shirley nearing the top of pitch 3 (August 2020).

Shirley arriving at the third belay (August 2020).

After pitch 3, a quick ridge scramble separates you from the summit of Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Shirley on the easy but scenic pitch 4 (August 2020).

Shirley arriving at the fourth belay (August 2020).

On the summit scramble (August 2020).

The shadow of Parmakkaya seen from the summit (August 2020).

View from the summit (August 2020).

Yours truly on the summit (August 2020).

Shirley on the summit ridge of Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Shirley on the upper rappel from Parmakkaya (August 2020).

The alpine ambiance of Parmakkaya (August 2020).

The “backside” of Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Shirley scrambling back down to our packs (August 2020).

Shirley and Parmakkaya (August 2020).

Alpine views in the afternoon light (August 2020).

On the hike down (August 2020).

More alpine views in the afternoon light (August 2020).

Parmakkaya (August 2020).

One last look at one very cool tower!

The beautiful Aladaglar range (August 2020).

Kangal Shepherd Dog is a breed of large livestock guardian dog. Stress on the “large” – bigger than the sheep they’re charged with protecting. Note the spike collar that keeps the wolves at bay apparently. Beautiful and intimidating looking dogs (August 2020).

Go to Cappadocia.
Go back to Turkey.