Baja Climbing | chossclimbers.com

The approach.

We reached Loreto in the late afternoon with enough time to pick up our car, check into our hotel and walk to the city square for a beer with James. He provided us with further details on how to reach the routes of interest (they’re on private land and so climbers should tread very gently) and we chatted about climbing in Mexico and especially on Baja. Despite its mountainous topography, it seems that most of the rock is choss; mostly of the conglomerate flavor with some variations of basalt thrown in. Nevertheless, James and partners are actively looking for patches of rock solid enough to bolt. We enjoyed the company and appreciated the detailed input.

Next day, we drove out of town in the morning and, after a 45 minute hike up an arroyo, found ourselves at the base of the area classic called Lolita; a fully bolted, 6-pitch 5.8+ on a proud arete of a basalt pyramid. The climbing was good and the position offered views of a desert valley stretching out to the blue of the Sea of Cortez in the distance. We were back in town in the afternoon and did our best to try to enjoy the nice pool at the hotel (hot in the valley where we were climbing but quite windy in town next to the sea).

Photos

Departing Portland at dawn with a stellar sunrise over Mount Hood. Shit, we’ve missed traveling (November 2020).

Sea Of Cortez on the flight from LAX to Loreto (November 2020).

The arches of Loreto (Nov. 2020).

Loreto’s sea front (Nov. 2020).

Loreto (Nov. 2020).

At our hotel – nice place with an extra helpful proprietor (November 2020).

On the 30 minute drive to the climbing (Nov. 2020).

Go 27.3 kilometers due east of the desiccated goat (Nov. 2020).

Lolita Pillar is the brown tooth (Nov. 2020).

Almost there (Nov. 2020).

Some amazing cocktuses on the hike up (Nov. 2020).

And a baby cactus (Nov. 2020).

More cacti (Nov. 2020).

Views from the base (Nov. 2020).

Leading pitch 1 of Lolita. We hung our pack one bolt up as we were given beta of some curious fauna investigating people’s packs (Nov. 2020).

Higher on pitch 1 (Nov. 2020).

Nearing the top of pitch 1 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley on pitch 1 of Lolita (Nov. 2020).

Views from P2 of Lolita (Nov. 2020).

Higher on P1 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley arriving at the first belay on Lolita (Nov. 2020).

Starting up pitch 2 (Nov. 2020).

Higher on pitch 2 with the rest of the pillar looming above (Nov. 2020).

P2 of Lolita (Nov. 2020).

Shirley on pitch 2 (Nov. 2020).

Nearing the second belay (Nov. 2020).

Starting up pitch 3 (Nov. 2020).

Looking back at Shirley from the start of pitch 3 of Lolita (Nov. 2020).

Higher on pitch 3 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley topping out on pitch 3 (Nov. 2020).

Views towards the Sea Of Cortez (Nov. 2020).

Shirley belaying me on the fourth pitch (Nov. 2020).

Views from top of pitch 4 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley on the fourth pitch (Nov. 2020).

Leading pitch 5 (Nov. 2020).

Looking back at Shirley at the fourth belay (Nov. 2020).

Combining pitches 5 and 6 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley starting up pitch 5 (Nov. 2020).

Shirley topping out on pitch 6 and the route (Nov. 2020).

Views from the top (Nov. 2020).

Loreto and Sea Of Cortez (Nov. 2020).

Shirley at the top of the route (Nov. 2020).

Shirley on the way down (Nov. 2020).

Back at the base (Nov. 2020).

The rock is definitely not granite (Nov. 2020).

Showy cacti (Nov. 2020).

Remnants of a cactus (Nov. 2020).

Shirley with the Lolita Pillar in the background (Nov. 2020).

Shirley hiking down with Pilon De Lolita in the background (Nov. 2020).

A chapel at the foot of Pilon de las Parras (November 2020).

Shirley walking towards the main city square (Nov. 2020).

Loreto (Nov. 2020).

Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó founded in 1697 (Nov. 2020).

Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó (Nov. 2020).

Loreto (Nov. 2020).

OK, time for a cultural immersion (Nov. 2020).

An evening in Loreto (November 2020).

Si.

Once the tasting was over we went to do some shopping (November 2020).

Yum (November 2020).

Go to Baja Fishing.
Go back to Baja California Sur.