Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio 2 | chossclimbers.com

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Final pitch (#20).

We woke up in the morning to a sight of fog in the valleys below. It looked like a river or perhaps like a glacier. As we were packing up, a condor soared just below us – amazing! With some rest, the climbing went reasonably quickly. We combined pitches fourteen and fifteen (up to .9), ate some easy choss on pitch sixteen and “enjoyed” some wideness and slabbiness on pitch seventeen (10a). Pitch eighteen was a quick traverse and nineteen was the last of the 5.10 climbing…a 10b tips crack to be specific. Perhaps some of the best climbing on the route. A hand crack and a dihedral (.9) of pitch twenty put us on fourth class terrain. We scrambled a bit higher, unroped and started hiking up towards the summit. We were almost out of water and so it was nice when we stumbled onto a puddle in a granite recess under a boulder. Right below the summit, we intercepted a well cairned descent route and followed it down. It eventually put us one double rope rap above the gully. The choss gully (where EZ Does It begins) was a pain in the ass – many drop offs up high would be quite dangerous in darkness. We made it back to our bivy sacks in the early afternoon and after cooking up some dinner decided to hike out in the morning.

Photos

In the morning, a river of fog in valleys below greeted us. Click photo for a video (Jan. 2015).

The good-morning pitches (#14 & 15) of day two (Jan. 2015).

Shirley topping out on pitch 15 (Jan. 2015).

Shirley on pitch 16 – hollow rock, sparse pro but easy climbing (Jan. 2015).

Shirley finishing pitch 17 (Jan. 2015).

Shirley at the belay for pitch 17 – a bit of wideness and some delicate face above (Jan. 2015).

Looking up at the beautiful granite that still stands between us and the summit (Jan. 2015).

Slabby finish to pitch 17 (Jan. 2015).

Pitch 18.

Leading the pretty 5.10- tips crack on pitch 19 of Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio…last of the 5.10 climbing (Jan. 2015).

Looking back from the 5.10- finger crack of pitch 19 (Jan. 2015).

Leading the final pitch (20) of Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio…we’re are ready to be done!

Views from top of the route – a bit of hiking stand between us and the summit (Jan. 2015).

Done, done, done!

Near the summit of Cerro Trinidad. Was going to rotate the photo but hey – it reflects our tired state well I thought (Jan. 2015).

We were running low on water but fortunately found this mossy drip right below the summit (Jan. 2015).

More views from the top (Jan. 2015).

Shirley starting the hike off the summit of Cerro Trinidad. It’s well cairned and easy…until you rap into the gully, then it becomes a loose pain in the ass (Jan. 2015).

Shirley hiking down the gully. In the daylight, it’s a PITA but not too bad; would be pretty dangerous in darkness (lots of very loose drop offs to meander around – don’t slip!).

One last look see at the beautiful face (Jan. 2015).

Shirley happy to be done! We spent one more night in our Valle Trinidad bivy before hiking out (Jan. 2015).

Hiking down the next day back to our base camp. What trail erosion?

Back in base camp on the valley floor, we aired out our stuff and even took showers…

Morning coffee in our base camp (while admiring the route we’ve just done).

Cerro Trinidad from the valley floor (Jan. 2015).

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