Rainy Riglos 5

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Mallo Fire.

For our final route in Riglos, we wanted a relatively sure bet – as in something that had a crux down low and if needed could be finished in the rain. The four-star (per guidebook, more on that below) Galletas route (8 pitches, 6a; photo overlay, with two climbers on Fisura Gallego-Carillo route highlighted in red circles) on the imposing Mallo Fire seemed to fit that bill. We started up the route by climbing the more direct first pitch of Directa As Cimas line. The crux third pitch involved a short stretch of overhanging rock followed by two pitches of fun and moderate face climbing including some photogenic traverses. Shirley’s final lead was an easy chimney (pitch 6). As I followed the pitch, light rain picked up and so we decided to try and link the final two (easy) chimney pitches. The latter half of my combined pitch 7/8 involved groveling up a tight chimney with the walls literally coated in thick globs of bird shit and weaving around loose chockstones.

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Galletas.

As I was mantling up onto the belay stance, I heard the rope behind me dislodge one of the chockstones. I heard a sickening sound of rockfall as the rock the size of two bowling balls hurtled down the chimney towards Shirley. I yelled “ROCK!!! BIG FUCKING ROCK!!!!!” at the top of my lungs knowing that Shirley’s belay stance in the chimney below offered little protection. My heart froze. It seemed like an eternity before the sound of rockfall subsided. I kept yelling “Are you OK??!!!” before finally hearing the response. I felt like puking. I hung there at the belay stance near the top of the chimney trying not to touch anything and very gently taking up slack as Shirley climbed. We were both pretty shaken but thankfully Shirley was untouched by the rockfall. She told me that she plastered herself to the sidewall of the chimney when she heard the first noise. Nasty, scary piece of shit route overall – even if the lower pitches were good, it does not deserve its four star rating. We topped out on the spire via some easy climbing and made a quick descent. For something that looks so imposing on the “front” side, it sure has a quick and easy descent on the backside (two short raps with some hiking in-between).

Photos

Mallo Fire (left) and El Pison (May 2010).

Mallo Fire (May 2010).

Mallo Fire from our approach to the Galletas route. There’s a soloist (roped) low on Galletas – click photo for full res. The route itself starts up the face and eventually makes its way to the obvious chimney between the spires (May 2010).

A soloist (think he did a mix of free and some roped on harder sections) on pitch 2 of Galletas. Click photo for full res. (May 2010).

Starting up Galletas on Mallo Fire…this is actually the first pitch of Directa As Cimas which offers a more direct start. If you look closely, you can see the soloist 3 or 4 pitches above me. The route makes its way up into the obvious (and nasty) chimney system splitting the formation (May 2010).

Shirley following pitch 1 of Galletas (May 2010).

Nearing the first belay (May 2010).

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Galletas (May 2010).

Shirley higher on pitch 2 (May 2010).

Following pitch 2 of Galletas (May 2010).

Arriving at the second belay (May 2010).

Leading the crux pitch (our P3) of Galletas on Mallo Fire – a short but steep section of jugs…despite appearances, it’s solid stuff (May 2010).

Shirley on the third pitch of Galletas (May 2010).

Shirley following the crux pitch of Galletas. Steep but short bulge that sets the rating of the route at about 6a ~ 5.10- (May 2010).

Shirley leading pitch 4 of Galletas (May 2010).

Higher on pitch 4 (May 2010).

The view of the El Pison (and El Puro) from somewhere on the Galletas route on El Mallo Fire (May 2010).

Climbers on the Normal Route on El Puro. Click for full res. (May 2010).

Shirley nearing the end of pitch 4 (May 2010).

At the fourth belay on Galletas (May 2010).

Starting the lead of pitch 5 on Galletas. This is the pitch that brings you into the final chimneys. El Pison and El Puro are in the background (May 2010).