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Falkenstein.
On the sixth and final day, we once again met Helmut at an altogether different trailhead and headed up for a large tower (mesa?) called Falkenstein and its historic route called Schusterweg; about 6-7 short and meandering pitches including a downclimb and a small tunnel. Helmut came along for the ride on this one as a second. Nice enough climbing and a spacious summit. We rapped and hiked over to another tower called Schrammsteinkegel where we climbed a route called Hintere Reibung in 1.5 pitches. From the top we got a great view including of a proud looking tower. Once back on the ground we asked Helmut what it was. We were told that it was called Dreifingerturm (Three Finger Tower) and its standard route (Alter Weg) was a runout chimney, not featured in Helmut’s “plasir route” guidebook but expected to be included in his upcoming “tortur routes” book.
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Dreifingerturm.
The tower looked great and we were psyched. The first crux of the route was the entry into the chimney: you climb up a meter or two, sink in an ufo and then off-width your way up until things widen to the point where you can squeeze into the chimney. You then chimney your way up with zero protection until you can exit the chimney onto a sub-summit where you can tie a sling or two before heading back across the chasm and climbing up to the summit proper. The second crux is this exit since the chimney widens and the walls become more coated with slippery lichen; as the pro (the single ufo) becomes a very distant memory, insecurity reaches its zenith. We topped out and had to wait for another party that was coming up the rap line. That turned out to be a family from Dresden headed by an older (70s) gentleman who told us that “here we use our balls and not protection.” Absolutely toxic masculinity – I almost had a cry but managed to quickly dash for my inner safe space.
Back to Prague that afternoon for a very early morning flight home. A fun little trip indeed!
Photos
Approaching the Falkenstein formation. Schusterweg route climbs the opposite side (August 2021).
Leading pitch 1 of Schusterweg on Falkenstein (August 2021).
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 of Schusterweg (August 2021).
Shirley topping out on pitch 1. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Moving the belay to the start of pitch 2 (August 2021).
Starting up pitch 2 of Schusterweg (August 2021).
Views from the base of pitch 2 (August 2021).
Higher on pitch 2 (August 2021).
Shirley following our pitch 2 (pitch 3 per topo; August 2021).
Same pitch (August 2021).
Shirley topping out on pitch 2 (August 2021).
Single ring bolt belays are the norm (August 2021).
Leading pitch 3 (August 2021).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of our pitch 3 of Schusterweg (August 2021).
Nearing the top of pitch 3 (August 2021).
Shirley staring up pitch 3 (August 2021).
More Shirley on pitch 3. Helmut Schulze collection (August 2021).
Views from the third belay with the likeness of Dr. Oskar Schuster. (August 2021).
Arriving at the third belay (August 2021).
Shirley starting pitch 4 – a down climb to a tunnel (August 2021).
Shirley down climbing and tunneling on pitch 4. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
One more of the pitch 4 down climb (August 2021).
Shirley on pitch 5 (August 2021).
Yours truly belaying Shirley on pitch 5. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Getting there. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Pitch 5 finish (August 2021).
Shirley arriving at the fifth belay (August 2021).
Starting up our pitch 6 which took us to the summit of Falkenstein. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Views from summit of Flakenstein (August 2021).
Shirley nearing the summit. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Shirley arriving at the top (August 2021).
Shirley and Helmut by the summit register (August 2021).
More summit views (August 2021).
Shirley on the summit (August 2021).
Signing the summit register. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Gipfelbuch (August 2021).
Shirley rapping off the summit (August 2021).
One more rap (August 2021).
Moving on to the next objective (August 2021).
Shirley on the approach. A city park like atmosphere (August 2021).
Helmut and Shirley at the base of the next route: Hintere Reibung on Schrammsteinkegel Tower (August 2021).
Just past the only piece of pro on Hintere Reibung route on Schrammsteinkegel. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Shirley starting up Hintere Reibung route (August 2021).
Some slabbiness (August 2021).
Shirley on Hintere Reibung. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Shirley nearing the belay (August 2021).
Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Arriving at the first belay (August 2021).
A collection of towers as seen from the summit of Schrammsteinkegel (August 2021).
Shirley and some towers (August 2021).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of the short second pitch (August 2021).
Yours truly on the summit of Schrammsteinkegel (August 2021).
Shirley on pitch 2 of Hintere Reibung (August 2021).
Dreifingerturm from the summit of Schrammsteinkegel (August 2021).
Unknown climbers on the summit of Dreifingerturm as seen from the summit of Schrammsteinkegel (August 2021).
Shirley on the summit of Schrammsteinkegel Tower (August 2021).
Towers, towers, and more towers.
Onwards to the next one (August 2021).
A convenience ladder (August 2021).
Heading for Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Starting up the Alter Weg route on Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
The one and only piece of pro on this route, three meters off the ground – well, at least till you exit the chimney (August 2021).
Trying to gain entry into the chimney (August 2021).
Getting established in the chimney; which becomes more flared as you go up. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Views from the summit of Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
More views of the Saxon countryside (August 2021).
Unknown climber nearing the top of Tante (August 2021).
Shirley on the opening moves of Alter Weg. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Shirley entering the chimney. Photo by Helmut (August 2021).
Shirley in the money section. Photo by Helmut. Click photo for full res. version (August 2021).
One more gem by Helmut. Click photo for full res. (August 2021).
Shirley emerging from the depths of the chimney (August 2021).
OK, now one just needs to get over to that sub-summit (August 2021).
Clean the pro and back to the main summit side (August 2021).
Shirley nearing the summit of Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Dreifingerturm summit register (August 2021).
Shirley on the summit of Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Schrammsteinkegel and a mace-shaped tower as seen from the summit of Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Tante Tower as seen from the summit of Dreifingerturm (August 2021).
Schrammsteine area (August 2021).
Almost back to the car (August 2021).
A quick beer with Tom after climbing and then it was back to Prague for an early morning flight home (August 2021).
Going home (August 2021).
Go back to Saxon Sandstone.