Meteora Part 5

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Go back to Meteora Part 4.

09/23/08. Hartetest (VI+, 4P) on Kumarieskopf

Hartetest.

We woke up late and by the time we were at the base, sun was shining brightly. Good thing too since those mossy holds on the first pitch have dried off. Pitch one of this thing is probably the first time in Meteora I got this uneasy feeling – sparse bolts and very questionable looking rocks (most seem to protrude out a bit too much …). I still felt like I could potentially deck right before clipping the 3rd bolt. Thankfully nothing popped but I arrived at the first belay with some doubts about continuing. The appearance did however improve as we looked up and so we gave it a go. The crux third pitch turned out to be some of the best climbing we’ve sampled in Meteora! A highly recommended (if short) route that felt pretty satisfying for something that is bolted.

Next day we got on the Corner Of Madness but of course it started raining midway up the already-plenty-slick pitch 1. We bailed. The next day, more f…ing rain! Formations were totally socked in clouds. What a shitty weather pattern!

09/26/08. Linie Des Fallenden Tropfens (VI, 6P) on Sourloti

Linie Des Fallenden Tropfens.

Partly cloudy skies and towers running with water, their green mosses shining, greeted us in the morning. We sat in the café getting tight on caffeine while watching Sourloti’s beautiful south face running with water. Finally by 2 we could take it no longer. We headed up and the sun started shining brightly. Indeed by the time we reached the upper pitches where the route follows the watercourse, things were mostly dry and quite pleasant. A beautiful line on a beautiful face even if not quite as fun as the traversing Hypotenuse. We rapped the line and made plans to return for one last outing on the face in the morning before leaving Greece…but of course, by morning it was once again pouring. Disappointed, we headed to Thessaloniki to catch the flight out.

Photos

I think this is the Moni Megalu Meteorou (monastery; Sept. 2008).

Starting up the first pitch of Hartetest…trying to see where that first bolt is (it was high for me; Sept. 2008).

Shirley following pitch 1 of Hartetest (Sept. 2008).

Shirley arriving at the first belay (Sept. 2008).

Leading pitch 2 of Hartetest (Sept. 2008).

Shirley on pitch 2 of Hartetest route with fall colors below (Sept. 2008).

Shirley almost atop pitch 2 of Hartetest (Sept. 2008).

Starting up pitch 3 (Sept. 2008).

Leading pitch 3 (Sept. 2008).

Higher on the crux third pitch (Sept. 2008).

Shirley topping out on pitch 3 (Sept. 2008).

Views from Hartetest. Pillar Of Dreams route is visible in profile on the left (Sept. 2008).

Leading the fourth and final pitch of Hartetest (Sept. 2008).

Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 4 (Sept. 2008).

Shirley on the summit of Kumarieskopf after our climb of Hartetest…we’re searching for the raps. Turns out you rap the route (Sept. 2008).

Shirley rapping off Kumarieskopf after our climb of Hartetest (Sept. 2008).

Hiking back under the impressive Holy Ghost Tower (Sept. 2008).

More towers (Sept. 2008).

Doupianifels (Sept. 2008).

A closer look (Sept. 2008).

Pitch 1 of Wahnsinnsverschneidung or Corner Of Madness route on Heiliger Geist before the rain started (Sept. 2008).

And what is this?

This is where climbers who retrobolt existing lines are strung up and whipped in front of the whole village populace…don’t fuck with climbing ethics in Greece (Sept. 2008).

A typical day during our two week stint in Meteora (Sept. 2008).

What’s next (Sept. 2008)?

An old church somewhere in Thessaly region of northern Greece (Sept. 2008).

A rainy day road trip and a short hike in northern Greece (Thessaly; Sept. 2008).

Pomegranate tree (Sept. 2008).

Shirley enjoying our third (after drinking table wine & climbing) favorite activity in Greece (Sept. 2008).

Greece (Sept. 2008).

A traffic jam in northern Greece during one of our rainy day road trips (Sept 2008).

Meteora formations with a storm clearing (Sept. 2008).

Some more dampness (Sept. 2008).

Shirley at the base of the Doupiani Rock (Ostkante route follows the ridge in the foreground) in full lichen bloom following some days of rain (Sept. 2008).

Pillar Of Dreams in a post rain bloom (Sept. 2008).

A Meteora tower-top monastery. This (I believe) is Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou…though I could very well be full of shit (Sept. 2008).

Unknown climber on the opening pitch of Pillar Of Dreams on Heiliger Geist (Sept. 2008).

Unknown climbers on the first pitch of Pillar Of Dreams (Sept. 2008).

Unknown climbers on the first pitch of Traumpfeiler (Pillar Of Dreams) on Heiliger Geist (Sept. 2008).

An unknown climber nearing the top (pitch 2) of what is likely the Gordischer Knoten (VII-) on The Spindel formation. Not the line that we did (Sept. 2008).