Squamish Buttress | chossclimbers.com

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Shirley finishing Blazing Saddles (May 2013).

Though up until 5:15 pm on Friday the plan was to catch a flight to SLC for some desert climbing, we somehow found ourselves hiking up to the base of Sheriffs Badge wall in Squamish on a late Saturday morning. We climbed the first two pitches of Borderline (10b….OK, nothing special) and then the two-pitch Blazing Saddles route: an OK 10a and a very nice 10b double splitter crack culminating with a cool roof under-cling and pull. Great little route.

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Rock On!

On Sunday, we climbed the classic Rock On (4 pitch, 10a…only the 5.8 exit pitch was wet) corner and then continued onto the Squamish Buttress (~5 pitch, 10c) route. While the former definitely deserves its classic status (funnest route we’ve done in Squamish to date!), can’t really get excited about the latter. Meandering, low-angle pitches interrupted by one aesthetic (if hard) 10c tips crack pitch. The whole thing is topped off by one more scrambly pitch and a short bush-whack scramble to the summit. One thing the route has going for it is of course the view. We topped out around 1:30 and once again (like Angel’s Crest outing) had to face a torrent of hikers on the backside trails.

Photos

Saturday

A bit of a light and healthy breakfast on Saturday morning (my Mom’s home baked goodies; May 2013).

The Sheriffs Badge as seen from the highway. The Borderline/Blazing Saddles combo follows the right-facing dihedrals (not the white colored ones…that’s Daily Planet) near the left edge of the white scar (way left; May 2013).

Shirley on pitch 1 of Borderline (5.10b; May 2013).

Shirley leading the second pitch of Borderline (May 2013).

Shirley leading the first pitch of Blazing Saddles (May 2013).

Nearing the top of the first pitch (5.10a; May 2013).

Starting up the amazing 2nd pitch of Blazing Saddles (5.10b; May 2013).

Leading THE pitch (#2) of Blazing Saddles. An easy double crack system (looks like 5.11 from below, climbs like a 5.8) leading to the 10- undercling and roof pull. How many cracks do YOU see in the photo?

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Blazing Saddles. Lookee at that five ton flake at the base of the pitch (May 2013).

Shirley enjoying the cruiser double crack system on pitch 2 of Blazing Saddles (May 2013).

The finishing layback on pitch 2 of Blazing Saddles (May 2013).

Sunday

Squamish Buttress (and The Chief’s South Summit above) and The Apron as seen from the highway below. Rock On starts from deep within the bowels of the South Gully while Squamish Buttress the route climbs the buttress above the hanging forest (May 2013).

Starting up the second pitch of Rock On (May 2013).

Shirley on our pitch 2 of Rock On (May 2013).

A much easier than it looks 5.9 chimney on pitch 2 of Rock On (May 2013).

Shirley atop our second pitch of Rock On (May 2013).

Shirley on the stellar third pitch of Rock On (May 2013).

Mid-move on the crux of the route (pitch 3; May 2013).

Leading the final pitch of Rock On – this was the only one that was really wet that day (May 2013).

Shirley on the first pitch of Squamish Buttress with the Howe Sound below (May 2013).

The ledgy (they all are) pitch 5 of Squamish Buttress. The grade setting finger crack is on the left/above (May 2013).

Shirley topping out on pitch 5 of Squamish Buttress (May 2013).

Starting up the money pitch of (the otherwise ho-hum) Squamish Buttress route (May 2013).

Town of Squamish from high up on Squamish Buttress (May 2013).

Leading the crux 5.10c finger (really? I thought it was tiny tips!) crack on pitch 5 or 6 of Squamish Buttress (May 2013).

Shirley enjoying the 10c tips crack of pitch 6 of Squamish Buttress (May 2013).

Shirley at the belay atop the finger crack pitch (#6?) of Squamish Buttress. Squamish is below and Garibaldi is above (May 2013).

Shirley hiking off (via a via ferrata…see where I’m going with this?) the South Summit of The Chief (May 2013).

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