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Admittedly, a Morocco trip was not our original plan for 2017. It wasn’t even a plan B. But with the election of a certain extremist, our plan A was effectively shut down leaving insufficient time for pulling off plan B. Morocco has been one of these places that we keep in the back pocket as an easy-to-do-on-a short-notice kind of destination. No visas, no complicated logistics, no hassles; just go and climb. In retrospect, we were not disappointed: a long-lived and rich culture, colorful scenery (both natural and manmade), pretty good climbing, and friendly Moroccans; and contrary to the prevailing sentiment in many online trip reports, Moroccans are not out to screw you. This certainly holds true outside of large cities. Of course the same can be said about most countries around world.

Plan C

Taghia

La Reve d’Aicha

l’Allumeur Du Reve Berbère

Taoujdad

Across The Atlas

Todra

Tiwira

Voie Abert

Marrakesh

Amsterdam

Videos

“Taxi Ride”

“Company During A Taghia Approach”

“Donkey Convoy In Taghia”

“Serenaded In Todra”

“Berber Bread Making”

“Jemaa el-Fna Square In Marrakesh”

Some Beta

For both Taghia and Todra, Marrakesh is the closest city with an international airport.

For Taghia, we highly recommend Said’s Gite (called Gite Tawajdat). It is here that the new route topos are kept in binders; not to mention that the place is clean and comfortable and the showers run hot. Although Said does not speak English (French), his son Mohammed does. You can contact them via their website (climbingtaghia.blogspot.com). The site provides up to date prices for lodging and breakfasts/dinners. You can also arrange a taxi pick up from Marrakesh (prices also listed) as well as the donkey transport from Zaouiat to Taghia directly with these guys. The only published guidebook for Taghia (as of 2017) is by Christian Ravier (in French). You can currently find it online.

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For Todra, we made on-the-fly arrangements with Mohammed in Taghia and things worked perfectly. These included the donkey and guide for the 12 hour, trans Atlas hike (which saves many hours of driving around the range, not to mention is a scenic little outing), a gite stay in Oussikis village (at the far side of the hike), the taxi pick up for the drive from Oussikis to Todra Gorge itself, and the room in Todra at the Tiwira Guesthouse (or Maison d’Hotes Tiwira). Alternatively, you can ping Abdul at the Tiwira Guesthouse directly and arrange cab pick-up and lodging with him (email: brah_fadil_85@hotmail.com; website: escalade-au-maroc.com). There is a Todra guidebook that can be purchased from either Abdul or a European-run climbing shop (if open) in the village. Furthermore, Abdul and friends are currently working on an updated guidebook. Don’t worry about the guidebook however, Abdul is a walking guidebook and can tell you (as well as show you) all about Todra’s climbing routes. Multi-pitch fun starts at 5+ and goes up from there. I would bring a light rack again if we were to go back.

Some Views

Go to Taghia page.
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