Damnation Crack And Angel

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Summary

Damnation Crack

Damnation Crack

On April 22, 2006, Shirley & I spent the day cragging around the Logger’s Ledge on Castle Rock. We did Damnation Crack (5.9) and I was very happy to send Angel’s first pitch (5.10-…modern or 5.7 per Beckey). For Damnation Crack, I should’ve brought a #5 Camalot to make the upper half less stressful. Though not very hard, the flaring chimney up top was not trivial either. Nice route. We did not do the upper pitch of Angel.

Photos

Damnation Crack (5.9)

Damnation Crack

Shirley at the base of the Damnation Crack (5.9) - a hands to chimney crack on the east (=approach) side of Jello Tower. The image severly foreshortens the upper portions making it look no more than 30 feet tall; in fact the crack is 80 (sustained) feet of climbing to top of Jello. Angel starts up on the vertical wall on the left (Apr. 22, 2006).


Damnation Crack

Leading the easier chimney section midway up Damnation Crack (5.9). The technical crux happens in the first 20 or so feet (an OW but with decent stemming around it or a good lieback) but the route stays interesting all the way to the top IMHO (Apr. 22, 2006).


Damnation Crack

Nearing the top of the nice Damnation Crack.

Angel (5.10-)

Angel

Leading Angel above the initial 20 foot finger crack crux. If you get nice fingerlocks in a #0.5 Camalot crack, that is good; if your fingers are smaller, I think the route might be tougher (???....off-fingers after the bottom-most move). The face holds on this popular "boulder problem" have a texture of teflon (Apr. 22, 2006).


Angel

Yours truly atop pitch 1 of Angel (5.10-) on Castle Rock. We did not do the upper pitch.


Angel

Shirley seconding Angel Crack on Castle Rock in Leavenworth, WA (2006).


Angel

Shirley seconding the awsome finger crack opener of Angel a 5.10b-ish (?) finger crack on what otherwise is (supposedly - we did not go for the top) a 5.7 2-3 pitch line on upper Castle Rock. Fred Beckey apparently discounted this 20-foot "boulder problem" and gave the whole route a 5.7 rating (Apr. 22, 2006).


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