The Nutcracker – chossclimbers

The Nutcracker

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The Spray

Nutcracker — Nutcracker.

Shirley & I climbed Nutcracker during a 2-day visit to The Valley in March of 2007. This was on day 2 after having been punished by the wide finishing pitch of Reed’s Direct. I recall finding these pre-rigged (trad) anchors on the route and thinking to myself “Damn!! That’s a ton of booty!!” Only to run into their owners at the base of the climb after we came down (some sort of epic climb and bail from the day prior). Needless to say, we told them to go f..k themselves and still enjoy their DMM cams to this day. Kidding…

The Pics

Reed's Direct — Starting up pitch 1 of Reed’s Direct (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Higher on pitch 1 (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Reed’s Direct (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Topping out on pitch 1 (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Starting pitch 2 of Reed’s Direct (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — View up-valley (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Shirley topping out on pitch 2 (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Starting the third and last (and the hardest by far!) pitch of Reed’s Direct (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Getting into the business (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — View across The Valley towards The Rostrum (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — The Rostrum (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — This is still the easy part of the chimney (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Into the hard squeeze chimney crux (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Shirley starting pitch 3 of Reed’s Direct (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Into the suffocating squeeze (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Loving it…

Reed's Direct — Rapping off (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — Shirley in our Upper Pines campsite (March 2007).

Reed's Direct — What’s on for tomorrow (March 2007)?

Nutcracker — Starting up Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Higher on the very nice pitch 1 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley topping out on pitch 1 of Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Higher (higher) and Middle Cathedral Rocks from Nutcracker. Central Pillar Of Frenzy is clearly visible (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley topping out on pitch 2 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Starting pitch 3. Shirley’s photo magic – it’s not quite that steep (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Higher on P3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Looking back at Shirley from lead of pitch 3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Pitch 3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Nearing the end of P3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley starting pitch 3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — The Sentinel (March 2007).

Nutcracker — More pitch 3 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Starting pitch 4 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley at the third belay on Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Starting the 5th and last pitch of Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — The short crux of Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley topping out on pitch 5 (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley on top of Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — The Sentinel from top of Nutcracker (March 2007).

Nutcracker — Shirley and Cathedral Spires and Rocks in the background (March 2007).

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