Sundog

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Summary

Sundog

Shirley leading the fourth and final pitch of Sundog - a diagonal traversing crack to a short wide section (Nov. 2011).

Sometime during our lazy October (when a few things were attempted but nothing got completed), Shirley & I stumbled onto some cheapo tickets to Vegas. On the upside it was a great deal with a good weekend schedule. On the downside it was from Spirit Airlines, the Greyhound of the skies (but with much less comfortable seats). With a 40lb limit on the checked bag, we packed the rack carefully paying attention to ensure we brought the thinnest of the twin ropes and the lightest of the wire gates. Still, we came in 2 lbs over and that included junk in my overstuffed man purse (any real carry on = much extra $$). The solution was to wear all the clothing we required for the 2 days and stuff my 2 pairs of undies & socks in my pockets. As is typical of our luck, the forecast for our Red Rocks weekend went from perfect to shit in a matter of about 5 days. Plans were progressively scaled down and on Saturday morning we found ourselves hiking into Oak Creek Canyon with an eye on the “other sunniest” route in the park called Sundog, a 5.9+ 4-pitcher on the right edge of Solar Slab. Inspired by Dow’s recommend on summitpost, we did the 2-pitch Frieda’s Flake chimney (5.9…soft) to access the upper slab. A nice, clean climb in its own right and probably one of the more efficient means of reaching the terrace (two 200+ footer pitches, 5.8 & 5.7). We swapped leads on Sundog with me getting the odds and Shirley enjoying the evens which included the “5.9 wideness” on the topmost pitch (more like 5.8 as it turned out). Mostly easy & low stress climbing and perhaps a bit cleaner than Sunflower? Ran into two guys from Prescott on top and combined forces for a quick descent.

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Fold Out

Following the best section of Fold Out - a pretty 5.7 crack near the top of pitch 1 (Nov. 2011).

Sunday’s forecast was calling for snow after lunch and so we packed for another easy route. Unfortunately the snow arrived much earlier and so after enjoying a leisurely breakfast we finally hiked into Icebox Canyon and headed for the Necromancer Wall. We thought we might do a few routes there but after knocking off the two-pitch Fold Out (5.8, pretty nice) in snow, hail and eventually drizzle we called it good and hiked out. As we were tossing stuff into the car at the trailhead, we heard a bum call out “Mister, you got any change?” Turned out the “bum” was our friend Josh from Bend accompanied by his friend Chris. It also turned out that Josh just rented a condo in Summerlin for his month-long Red Rocks climbing trip. And so we stocked up on some booze & drank the Sunday afternoon away swapping climbing stories. We were home later that night. Good climbing, shitty weather, great company.

Photos

Saturday

Frieda's Flake

Leading the pitch 1 chimney on Frieda's Flake...easier than the advertised 5.9 IMHO (Nov. 2011).


Frieda's Flake

Shirley starting the 2nd pitch of Frieda's Flake (5.9) on the lower Solar Slab (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Starting up pitch 1 of Sundog, a 5.7 face (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley following the nice pitch 1 of Sundog on the Solar Slab (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Sundog - a bit of easy crack to a bolted 5.8 bulge to some runout 5.7 face (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley leading pitch 2 of Sundog (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Following the nice pitch 2 of Sundog (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Starting the lead of pitch 3 of Sundog...that block I'm standing on sounded hollow...your belayer would be mighty angry should that thing go (or mighty dead; Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Leading pitch 3 of Sundog. Some hollow sounding blocks (lookee at that big chicken head!) to an easy bulge followed by a white rock slab section (crux; Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of Sundog. This is the crux pitch of the route - a well bolted 5.9ish slab section mid-pitch (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley starting the final pitch of Sundog (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley leading the fourth and final pitch of Sundog - a diagonal traversing crack to a short wide section (Nov. 2011).


Sundog

Shirley starting the raps from the top of Sundog with the shadow of Mt. Wilson in the background (Nov. 2011).

Sunday

Necromancer Wall

Shirley admiring the Necromancer Wall in Icebox Canyon (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Fold Out on Necromancer Wall (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Shirley leading pitch 1 of Fold Out, a nice an juggy (if steep) 5.7 climbing (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Shirley leading the first pitch of Fold Out (5.7) in a light snow storm (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Following the best section of Fold Out - a pretty 5.7 crack near the top of pitch 1 (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Shirley at the pitch 1 belay on Fold Out (5.8) with the Frigid Air Buttress in the background (Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Leading the pitch 2 traverse on Fold Out (5.8; Nov. 2011).


Fold Out

Shirley belaying me on pitch 2 of Fold Out (5.8) on Necromancer Wall (Nov. 2011).


Necromancer Wall

Shirley doing a "bonus" pitch to the rap station atop Fold Out on Necromancer Wall (Nov. 2011).


Necromancer Wall

Cairns come in all sizes. This one marks the start of the raps on the backside of the Necromancer Wall in Icebox Canyon (Nov. 2011).


Necromancer Wall

Shirley representing with our unmarked Crown Vic at the Icebox Canyon trailhead (Nov. 2011).


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