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![Mount Moran Mount Moran](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1090-300x225.jpg)
Shirley paddling our way across Leigh Lake on the way to the South Buttress Of Mount Moran (failure)...which itself lies dead ahead (Aug. 2006).
In early August 2006, we rented a car (since we’re very careful about not putting too many miles on the cars we own) in Oregon and drove to Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park in hope of climbing the Direct South Buttress route (III 5.8 C1) on Mount Moran. If you did not gather this from the title, shit did not go as planned and we bailed off a couple pitches up when a thunder storm started rolling over us. On the upside, the route (the whole side of the mountain in fact) features probably one of the coolest approaches we’ve seen: a freakin’ 6 mile canoe (most of it on Leigh Lake) with a (short but for us plenty painful) portage! That alone makes me want to go back for that line.
Photos
![Mount Moran Mount Moran](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1090-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley paddling our way across Leigh Lake on the way to the South Buttress Of Mount Moran (failure)...which itself lies dead ahead (Aug. 2006).
![Mount Moran Mount Moran](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1094-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley paddling our way across Leigh Lake on the way to the South Buttress Of Mount Moran (failure)...which itself lies dead ahead (Aug. 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1113-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley on the final approach scramble to the start of the Direct South Buttress of Mount Moran (Aug. 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1121-1024x768.jpg)
Leading P3 of DSB (failed attempt). I think this is the "standard 5.9 variation". Though acc. to the topo, the standard 5.7 pitch goes right around the corner, I suspect most people end up in this dihedral as you sorta get suckered in by the clean, direct line up. Very nice pitch (Aug. 6, 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/IMG_4472-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley topping out on P3 of DSB (failed attempt). This was the best of the first ~5 pitches we managed (5.9 variation I think; Aug. 6, 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/IMG_4485-1024x768.jpg)
Shirley nearing the end of pitch 4 traverse on the Direct South Buttress of Mount Moran (Aug. 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSCN1131-768x1024.jpg)
Leading the steep but juggy P5 of DSB. Started to rain when we topped out on this pitch (Aug. 6, 2006).
![Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran) Direct South Buttress (Mount Moran)](https://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/IMG_4491-768x1024.jpg)
We're about to get hit with a t-storm atop the fifth pitch of the Direct South Buttress route on Moran...we bailed from here (Aug. 2006).
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