Lower Gorge’s Two Stars

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Summary

Greasy Spoon

Shirley beginning the lead of Greasy Spoon (5.10a) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. The initial finger crack is the crux (Oct. 21, 2006).

Two day weekend in October 2006. We took turns leading some of the easier (less sustained) 2-star lines on the West Side of the Lower Gorge. On Saturday (21st of October), we did Patent Leather Pump (originally 10a but now 5.9 in the 2nd edition guidebook), Turning Point (5.10a), Greasy Spoon (5.10a), Religious Fervor (5.9), and Lost Souls (5.9). On Sunday, we climbed Conversion Excursion (5.10a), Wasted Words (5.9), and Sitting Duck (5.9).

Photos

Patent Leather Pump

Shirley starting up Patent Leather Pump (5.9...formerly 5.10a but downgraded in the 2nd edition Watts book) on the Catwalk Cliff (Oct. 21, 2006).


Turning Point

Leading Turning Point (5.10a) on Star Wall in Smith's Lower Gorge. Convergign OW's to a finger (tip) crack through a bulge (hard for the grade) crux (Oct. 21, 2006).


Turning Point

Blondie watching daddy on Turning Point (Oct. 2006).


Greasy Spoon

Shirley beginning the lead of Greasy Spoon (5.10a) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. The initial finger crack is the crux (Oct. 21, 2006).


Religious Fervor

Into the short wideness crux of Religious Fervor (5.10a). Even on lead, this is probably easier as a lieback than an OW jam fest... (Oct. 21, 2006).


Lost Souls

Shirley leading Lost Souls (5.9) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. The line veering off to the right above (into OW thru. bulge) is Wasted Words (5.10a; Oct. 21, 2006).


Windfall Wall

Windfall Wall in October of 2006.


Conversion Excursion

Shirley leading Conversion Excursion (5.10a) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. It seemed to me that crux was getting into this open book. This was Shirley's first 5.10a onsight (Oct. 22, 2006).


Wasted Words

Leading Wasted Words (5.10a) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. Crux is the OW crack through bulge above and on the right. Continuing straight up is Lost Souls (5.9; Oct. 22, 2006).


Wasted Words

Shirley seconding Wasted Words on the Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. OW crack above and on the right is the short crux. Above Shirley's left hand is Lost Souls (nice 5.9 fingers). Next line to the left is Religious Fervor (5.10a) followed immediately by Sitting Duck (5.9). The wavy line on the right is another 5.9 crack line. High density of decent basalt lines (Oct. 22, 2006).


Sitting Duck

Shirley leading Sitting Duck (5.9) on Catwalk Cliff in Smith's Lower Gorge. Lower third is the crux. Religious Fervor (5.10a) is on the right - lines converge for the final 15 feet to the anchor. The block above Shirley's head is in fact solid.....at least it was when we were there (Oct. 22, 2006).


Shakespeare Wall

Shakespeare Wall in October of 2006.


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