Gandalf’s Grip

Southwest Face (Steins Pillar)

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Summary

Gandalf's Grip
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).

In May 2008 we made another quick visit to Broughton Bluff and climbed the nice, three pitch long Gandalf’s Grip (5.9+) route on the North Face Wall. We’ve never really been that interested in the local (city) crags but did like this route. The first pitch was hard for the grade, the second pitch was right on, and the third pitch seemed easy for a 5.9. Just personal preferences I’m sure. As of 2011, this was our latest visit to Broughton.

 

Photos

Broughton Bluff
The view of Broughton Bluff's North Wall (home to classic Gandalf's Grip 5.9+ route) from the hike in. The Bluff is largely obscured by dense vegetation and so it's not easy to get a clear long range shot (March 26, 2006).

Gandalf's Grip
Starting up pitch 1 of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).

Gandalf's Grip
Shirley starting up the first pitch of Gandalf's Grip - a nice easy crack for starters (May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley enjoying the decent starting crack of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley at the crux of Gandalf's Grip on pitch 1 (5.9+; May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 of Gandalf's Grip...this is past the first crux and right below the second crux (IMHO; May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley at the belay atop pitch 1 of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Starting up pitch 2 of Gandalf's Grip (5.8; May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
The suburban ambiance of Broughton Bluff - not too bad actually, right at the western mouth of Columbia Gorge (May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 (5.8) of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley at the belay atop pitch 2 of Gandalf's Grip (May 2008).


Gandalf's Grip
Leading the final (third) and short (aren't they all at Broughton?) pitch of Gandalf's Grip (5.9 but that seemed very generous; May 2008).
Gandalf's Grip
Shirley starting up the short third pitch of Gandalf's Grip (5.9 but seemed much easier; May 2008).

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