Mexico

By Trip

Mexico

Beautiful Mexico.

Crescent Moon Buttress

Crescent Moon Buttress.


A small sampling of what Mexico has to offer from a few quick trips to date. After the road trip, we’re itching to explore more of the beautiful country. Hopefully some day.

  • “EPC Finale” (November 2016)
  • “Three Day EPC Quickie” (November 2015)
  • “EPC Quickie” (November 2014)
  • “Mexico Road Trip” (December 2013)
  • “EPC 2” (February 2013)
  • “El Potrero Chico” (November 2011)
  • By Area

    El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)
    Timewave Zero

    Timewave Zero summit.

  • Estrellita (12P, 5.10b)
  • Dope Ninja (6P, 5.10b)
  • Space Boyz (11P, 5.10d)
  • Yankee Clipper (11P, 5.10b)
  • Pancho Villa Rides Again (5P, 5.10c)
  • Satori (6P, 5.10c)
  • Jungle Mountaineering (4P, 5.9)
  • Las Chimuelas (3P, 5.8)
  • Jungle Fever (2P, 5.10a)
  • Off The Couch (7P, 5.10d)
  • Will The Wolf Survive (4P, 5.10a)
  • .
    El Potrero Chico

    Good morning again Potrero.

  • Treasure Of The Sierra Madre (7P, 5.10c)
  • Black Cat Bone (9P, 5.10d)
  • Excalibur (6P, 5.10c)
  • Super Nova (8P, 5.11a)
  • Snott Girlz (7P, 5.10d)
  • Pepe Y Lupe (3P, 5.10c)
  • Agua De Coco (4P, 5.10d)
  • Pitch Black (6P, 5.10d)
  • Timewave Zero (23P, 5.11- A0)
  • 5 AM Breakfast (6P, 5.10b)
  • Access Denied (4P, 5.10c)
  • Cactus Pile (3P, 5.10b)
  • NOT El Potrero Chico (Nuevo Leon)
    Crescent Moon Buttress

    Crescent Moon Buttress.

  • Crescent Moon Buttress (8P, 5.10a)
  • Pena de Bernal (Queretaro)
    Bernal

    Bernal.

  • Horizonte De Estrellas to Bernalina (6P, 5.10b)
  • Via Del Padre to Bernalina (6P, 5.10b)
  • Parque Nacional El Chico (Hidalgo)
    Parque Nacional El Chico

    Parque Nacional El Chico.

  • Transversal (4P, 5.9)
  • Mas Alla De La Estrellas (4P, 5.10b)
  • Resources

    El Potrero Chico

    Enjoying some pizza and margaritas from Edgardo’s trailer.

  • Ed’s page for all things El Potrero. From climbing beta (Ed’s guidebooks are the most complete guides to EPC) to casita rentals and airport shuttling.
  • Comprehensive guidebooks for everything else. Love flipping through the pages & daydreaming about future adventures!
  • There are other resources online…but you can figure those out for yourself.

    El Potrero Favorites

    Off The Couch

    Off The Couch. Drew Smith photo.

    Over the course of our five visits to El Potrero Chico, we have climbed the majority of the routes that were within our ability and of interest to us (don’t care about single pitch stuff). Sure, there are always loose ends to tie up and in a pinch I’m sure we’d find a handful that would justify another easy climbing holiday in the sunny Nuevo Leon. And of course there’s always the possibility of new development. However, reflecting back on all the fun times, we think that these are our favorites to date:

    Short

    Agua De Coco

    Agua De Coco.

    Agua De Coco – fun pocket-y climbing with nice views of the Jungle Wall across the canyon. There’s even a palm tree belay station (don’t worry – it’s all bolted of course). A good way to burn a half day.

    Medium Short

    Snott Girlz

    Snott Girlz (P5).

    Snott Girlz – very good climbing including some crack sections up high. A route that tops out on the ridge gendarme and offers enticing views of Time Wave Zero Buttress. Pitch 5 opener is quite photogenic – make sure the belayer is the one with the camera.
    Off The Couch – move per move, the front side seems to have the sort of face climbing we enjoy the most – not overly steep but quite crimpy (ala Smith). While all three routes that we’ve done there top out on the same scenic ridge (Scariest Ride In The Park traverse), this was our favorite. Man I wish we were good enough for the real gem of the front side.

    Medium Long

    Space Boyz

    Space Boyz.

    Space Boyz – is the original classic line of EPC (a modern North American favorite) and without a doubt it is a great line! A nice mouthful of a day even if the rock is getting polished in places.
    Black Cat Bone – good variety: from crimpy faces to a roof pull to a (pretty challenging) chimney up high. Don’t let the grassy break in the lower third deter you. The position is quite nice and it does not get the crowds like its next door neighbor (SB).

    Long

    Timewave Zero

    Timewave Zero.

    Timewave Zero – the moderate classic of the area (well, if you aid the 5.12 pitch like we did). Despite the complaints you read online (monotonous, not sustained etc), we found the climbing to be very good and the position – high above the interior of the Potrero – to be spectacular. One of the modern classics of North America.

    Summary

    El Potrero Chico

    An artist’s view of El Potrero Chico – drinking interrupted by some sport climbing…those are 32oz (~1L) bottles (Nov. 2011).

    Parque Nacional El Chico

    Parque Nacional El Chico.

    El Potrero Chico

    Salsas, tortilla chips, ingredients for 5 lbs of guac, and expired (as we only noticed later) milk. All set for 4 or 5 days of climbing in El Potrero Chico.

    Hidalgo

    Hidalgo and its cement plant (Dec. 2013).

    Pena De Bernal

    Pena De Bernal

    Bernal

    Bernal