Ides Of Middlemarch | chossclimbers.com

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Ides Of Middlemarch.

After a leisurely start the next day, we drove out to the Sheepshead trailhead in the West Stronghold with an eye on climbing the five pitch Ides Of Middlemarch (5.10-). We both found the first and crux (of route) bulge on pitch 1 hard, though I had no excuse as it’s supposed to be just a reachy move… We then swapped leads and the rest of the pitches proved enjoyable. In fact, I would say that this was the most “trad” route we’ve done (of 6) on the formation! As the Kerry guidebook final pitch comes with warnings of dangerous chockstones, we opted to top out via Peacemaker’s final slab pitch (styled by Shirley) which we’ve done before. Quick hike down and we were making plans for the next day.

Photos

Shirley on the approach to the Sheepshead on the west side of the Stronghold (Dec. 2010).

The Sheepshead. A great face with a large collection (too many?) of 6-8 pitch routes (Dec. 2010).

Yours truly leading pitch 1 of Ides Of Middlemarch…the first visible bulge/roof is the crux of the route (Dec. 2010).

At the crux on pitch 1 of Ides Of Middlemarch…Shirely is belaying below. View provided by the helmet cam (Dec. 2010).

Shirley leading pitch 2 of Ides Of Middlemarch …a very nice, trad pitch (Dec. 2010).

Yours truly nearing the top of pitch 2 of Ides Of Middlemarch (Dec. 2010).

Shirley atop pitch 2 of Ides Of Middlemarch with the desert landscape of SE Arizona in the background (Dec. 2010).

Starting up pitch 3 of Ides Of Middlemarch…nice, sustained trad pitch (Dec. 2010).

Shirley on pitch 3 of Ides Of Middlemarch (Dec. 2010).

The exit move – funnest pitch of the route I think.

Yours truly starting the lead of pitch 4 of Ides Of Middlemarch…a short crack/groove thing followed by easy and fun sea of chickenheads (Dec. 2010).

Shirley belaying me from top of pitch 3 on Ides Of Middlemarch (Dec. 2010).

Shirley starting up the finishing pitch of Ides Of Middlemarch…this is the final pitch of Peacemaker actually that we had done in the past. The standard finishing pitch of Ides features some loose chockstones reportedly (Dec. 2010).

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