Shirley climbing the 9th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004).
I no longer recall why (probably cheap tickets?), but Shirley & I went to Red Rocks for a weekend of climbing in July of 2004. We wanted to do the 9-pitch Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) on the Cloud Tower. Overall it was not a totally illogical choice as the route remained shady most of the day (in fact, it looked freezing from afar during our previous winter visits) and there were of course no other climbers on it (…or in the canyon…or probably most of Red Rocks). I still think of this route as probably the best 5.8 we’ve ever done. Just amazing – steep, sustained, and very exposed! Most belays were of the painful hanging sort. The downer of the day was the park ranger waiting for us at the trailhead to write us a ticket for staying past the loop road closing time (yes, we did not call for late exit pass…dumb). Gotta love the personal touch of the law enforcement (it would’ve been so much colder to just leave the ticket behind the windshield wiper). The day before Crimson, we also climbed the 6-pitch Group Therapy (5.7) on the Angel Food Wall. I think it was nice but I don’t recall much about it now.
Photos
Group Therapy
Shirley hiking towards the Angel Food Wall and Group Therapy route (July 2004). Shirley nearing the top of Group Therapy's pitch 1 (July 2004). Shirley at the pitch 1 belay (July 2004). The wide crack that is pitch 2 of Group Therapy ...putting that #5 Camalot to use (July 2004). Looking down the wideness that is pitch 2 of Group Therapy (July 2004). Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 of Group Therapy (July 2004). Shirley topping out on pitch 4 of Group Therapy (July 2004). Starting the lead of pitch 5 of Group Therapy (July 2004). Nearing the top of pitch 5 of Group Therapy (July 2004). Daddy atop pitch 5 of Group Therapy...dorky fucking dorky...this was one of two rock routes I've climbed in shades...big fashion mistake...way up there with shorts over polypro 2002 collection (July 2004). Looking at Shirley from the start of pitch 6 lead on Group Therapy (July 2004). Shirley topping out on Group Therapy (July 2004).
Crimson Chrysalis
Ginger Cracks (left, blue line; III 5.9) and Crimson Chrysalis (right, red line; ~1000 feet high III 5.8+) on the north face of Rainbow Mountain as seen from the approach trail near mouth of Pine Creek Canyon (Nov. 2004). The beautiful, 9-pitch Crimson Chrysalis route on the Cloud Tower formation of Rainbow Mountain's north face. Approximate line of route and belay locations indicated. The route is approximately 1000 feet high. Photo taken from top of Geronimo route on Juniper Peak in early January 2004. Long range overview shot can be seen here. Cloud Tower (left) and Brownstone Wall (center) in the morning glow during our approach to Crimson Chrysalis (2004). Shirley on approach to Crimson Chrysalis on Cloud Tower...the narrow buttress above at center of photo (July 2004). An unknown party on pitch 2 of Crimson Chrysalis (2004). Starting up the spectacular line that is Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Yours truly atop pitch 1 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley atop pitch 1 of Crimson Chrysalis...the first of so many hanging belays on the line (July 2004). Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 2 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley nearing the top of pitch 2 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Looking at Shirley belaying me on the third pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following pitch 3 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Looking back down at Shirley from the lead of pitch 4 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following the 4th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley nearing the top of pitch 4 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Looking at Shirley from the lead of pitch 5...the only belay ledge on the route (July 2004), Shirley following the 5th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Starting the lead of the 6th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following pitch 6 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Warm Shirley at the 6th belay on Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following the 7th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis...a transition between two rock bands of different colors (July 2004).
Shirley atop the 7th pitch admiring the rest of the steepness (July 2004). Looking back at Shirley from the lead of the 8th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley nearing the top of pitch 8 of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004).
Looking back at Shirley suffering through the last hanging belay (#8) on Crimson Chrysalis...shot taken from midway up the final (#9) pitch of the route (July 2004). Shirley climbing the 9th pitch of Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following the 9th and final pitch of the spectacular Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley following pitch 9 (final pitch) on Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Tired and dehydrated Shirley at the top of Crimson Chrysalis route on Cloud Tower (July 2004). Brownstone Wall from the top of Crimson Chrysalis route on Cloud Tower (July 2004). Yours truly atop Crimson Chrysalis in the warm afternoon sun of Red Rocks (in July 2004). Shirley on the final rap on Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004). Shirley touching down on the final rappel from Crimson Chrysalis (July 2004).
Other Views Of Crimson Chrysalis
Wide angle view of 2 climbers on Crimson Chrysalis on Cloud Tower formation. All of the route is visible in profile as is the hard classic Cloud Tower (III 5.12-) to the right. For tighter shot of the two see here (Apr. 2008). Two climbers separated by a pitch somewhere midway up Crimson Chrysalis on Cloud Tower formation. For a wide angle view of the formation with the 2 climbers see here (Apr. 2008). Unknown party somewhere on the lower half of Crimson Chrysalis route (2009).
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