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A Friday night to Sunday night quickie to southern Arizona’s premier climbing venue to soak up a bit of sunshine. On Saturday, we drove to the end of the access road on the west side and slogged up (not too bad, one hour roughly) to the base of Dreamscape Buttress
(5P, 5.9) on Westworld Dome. Climbing was fun on pretty much every pitch with the last one being the highlight: a unique combo of slab and face climbing from one chicken-head to the next and relying on the chicken-heads for protection. Very Cochise indeed. On Sunday, we hiked up to the base of Muttonhead Dome and climbed the (sandbagged) Tour Buses Welcome
route. That third and final pitch was quite a surprise since the hardmen of mountainproject call it a 5.10-. Small package but good climbing. Can’t believe that we’ve let more than 4 years pass by without visiting this special place.
Shirley starting our approach to the “backside” of Westworld Dome. The usually dry washes were running this time around (Feb. 2017).
Nearing the start of Dreamscape Buttress on Westworld Dome (Feb. 2017).
Starting up pitch 1 of Dreamscape Buttress – yeah the start is runout but you hardly feel it as you’re semi-wedged in the groove (Feb. 2017).
Shirley topping out on pitch 1 (Feb. 2017).
Pitch 2 – the alligator plate nirvana starts here (Feb. 2017).
Views from low on Dreamscape Buttress…already quite spectacular (Feb. 2017).
Shirley on pitch 2 (Feb. 2017).
Starting up pitch 3 of Dreamscape Buttress. More of a groove than crack but sufficient for placing pro (Dec. 2017).
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of Dreamscape Buttress (Feb. 2017).
Starting up pitch 4. Those last two pitches (4 & 5) really make this route into a worthy outing (Feb. 2017).
Looking towards Squaretop formation – home to the very fun Cragaholic’s Dream route (Feb. 2017).
Higher on the same pitch (Feb. 2017).
Shirley enjoying the highlights of the route!
The fun culminates with this chicken-head hanging belay…iconic Cochise Stronghold (Feb. 2017).
Topping out on pitch 4 with the Squaretop and Rockfellow Domes in the background (Feb. 2017).
Starting the lead of the 5th and final pitch. Traverse right, place some bomber gear and aim for the large, solitary chicken-head directly above the (hanging chicken-head) belay. Shitloads of fun (Feb. 2017).
Shirley enjoying the hanging chicken-head belay (Feb. 2017).
Gunning for the chicken-head. Send the taller climber up to lead this pitch (Feb. 2017).
Looking back at Shirley from mid-way up the final pitch. Such unique climbing protected by slung chicken-heads (Feb. 2017).
Shirley atop the Dreamscape Buttress route near the summit of Westworld Dome (Feb. 2017).
Views of the Rockfellows. End Pinnacle is in the foreground; Rockfellow Dome is the larger one providing the background. There’s a climber on the left side – either rapping down from Rockfellow Dome or maybe at a belay on Abracadaver (Feb. 2017).
A closer look…
A climber and the Friendly Flake – a feature you climb on Abracadaver (Feb. 2017).
Shirley searching for the first rap station (just below her; Feb. 2017).
The southeast buttress of Westworld Dome (home of Dreamscape Buttress) as seen from the hike down (Feb. 2017).
View of Sheepshead and its neighbors during our afternoon drive out (Feb. 2017).
And the Sheepshead group as seen shortly after sunrise the following morning. Sheepshead is the largest formation, Muttonhead is to its left, followed by Mount Chaktar and Boot Hill (Feb. 2017).
We’ve done this approach maybe 8 times over the years but it’s always quite striking to be hiking through an ocean of yellow grass (Feb. 2017).
Leading pitch 1 of Tour Buses Welcome – barely a warm-up for what lies above (esp. pitch 3!).
Shirley on the first pitch of Tour Buses Welcome (Feb. 2017).
More pitch 1 action (Feb. 2017).
Leading pitch 2: very fun, varied face climbing!
Shirley on the upper half of pitch 2 of Tour Buses Welcome…steeper that it looks in this photo (Feb. 2017).
Looking back towards the parking lot (Feb. 2017).
And the pitch 2 top-out (Feb. 2017).
Leading pitch 3…calling it 5.10a/b (per mountainproject reviews) will leave most quite surprised (Feb. 2017).
Shirley above the crux on the third pitch of Tour Buses Welcome (Feb. 2017).
Topping out (Feb. 2017).
Rapping down the colorful Muttonhead Dome (Feb. 2017).
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