Yangshuo Climbs 1

China

Go back to China.
Go back to Yangshuo.

Grandfathered In
Nice position with fun exposure.

Our first climb in Yangshuo was the 6-pitch 6b line called Grandfathered In on a handsome looking spire. Unfortunately, somebody screwed up on the crux 5th pitch and ended up at the rap anchor…maybe consulting the topo is a good idea even on a bolted climb (especially if you’re learning disabled like me). We did not get to do the final 5.8 pitch but more importantly we missed the summit. The following day we climbed the somewhat famous Yangshuo mash up of Paparazzi Pete to Happy New Year on The Thumb formation (6 pitch, 6a). A fun line on some pretty black and pretty sharp limestone that was positively baking in the harsh sun that day. Ambitions to do another climb the same day evaporated in the heat and instead we focused on rehydrating ourselves with some shitty beer and a dip in the river.

Photos

Yangshuo
Hot wiring the scooters – one of our cherished morning routines in Yangshuo (right there with having a decent cup of coffee at the hotel).
Yangshuo
A Yangshuo breakfast…I was almost getting used to the freshly blended soya bean milk when it was time to leave…
Yangshuo
Steamed buns and dumplings – maybe the reason that I found some of the 5.10+ routes difficult (many buns for breakfast make ass heavy for climbing).
Grandfathered In
The Grandfathered In in formation (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Shirley topping out on pitch 1 or 2 of Grandfathered In…just clearing the jungle canopy (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Odd looking stacked limestone on Grandfathered In (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
The nice pitch 3 dihedral (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Starting up pitch 4 of Grandfathered In: 5.10c and our favorite pitch of the trip (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Higher on the same quality pitch (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Shirley following pitch 4 – crimps to a slight bulge/mantle at the end. Very fun (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Topping out on the same pitch (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Views from Grandfathered In (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Shirley on pitch 5 of Grandfathered In…or a variation of it. I should’ve checked the guidebook but did not. In the back of my mind I recalled a 5.11 variation going left and the pitch proper going right. In short, I fucked up and we ended up at the rap anchor.
Grandfathered In
Into the stem box (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Nice position with fun exposure!
Grandfathered In
Views from high up on Grandfathered In (Sept. 2016).
Grandfathered In
Packing up back at the “trailhead”. Kind of loved the whole experience of commuting to climbs on our scooter (thanks Ola!!).
Yangshuo
Scenic drive on some narrow backcountry roads outside of Yangshuo (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Postcard perfect scenery (well, maybe not the concrete buildings).
Yangshuo
An old man and his fishing “tools”, the cormorants (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
A close-up.
Yangshuo
More random Yangshuo sights (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
A bar we actually checked out. Bar hopping is not really our thing but this one seemed OK with some live (Chinese) music though I suspect that my dram of Glenfiddich was actually Johnny Walker Red (Sept. 2016).
Thumb Peak
Thumb Peak from the base (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Shirley at the base of The Thumb Peak racking up for Paparazzi Pete route (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Starting up pitch 1 of Paparazzi Pete on The Thumb Peak (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Nearing the first belay (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Shirley on pitch 1 (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Into the hot sunshine on pitch 1 of Paparazzi Pete (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Shirley topping out on pitch 1. Balmy (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Views from the first belay (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Starting up pitch 2 of Paparazzi Pete (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Shirley on pitch 2 (Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
From the top of pitch 2 of Paparazzi Pete, we traversed over to Happy New Year. This is the first pitch of the latter (Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
Views of the busy road from high up on Thumb Peak (Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
Shirley topping out on the same pitch. Beautiful – black and sharp – limestone. Although at the time it felt like an oven in the blazing sun (Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
Shirley on pitch 2 of Happy New Year (we traversed over to this one from top of pitch 2 of Paparazzi Pete; Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
Pitch 3 of Happy New Year (Sept. 2016).
Happy New Year
Shirley in the sauna at a belay…see how fogged up the lens is?
Happy New Year
Leading the third and final pitch of Happy New Year (Sept. 2016).
Paparazzi Pete
Nice dihedral on the third pitch (Sept. 2016).
The Thumb
Views from high up on The Thumb (Setp. 2016).
Thumb Peak
Shirley on the very short hike back to our scooter. A horse and the Middle Finger are visible (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Lotus flowers (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Shirley and the lotus flowers. Should’ve taken more photos since the entrance fee to this field was like 40 Yuan (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
A bit muddy (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Shirley among the lotus flowers (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
A lotus flower. The yellow center will eventually turn green and produce edible nuts (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Swimming in the river was a great way of capping off a Yangshuo day (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Yangshuo (Sept. 2016).
Yangshuo
Dinner time in Yangshuo (Sept. 2016).

Go to Yangshuo Climbs 2.
Go back to China.