Pancas

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Face Oculta
Shirley on the summit of Pedra da Cara.

Our original plan was to try the Face Oculta route (5 pitch, IV) on Pedra da Cara, the only Pancas route to make it into the 50 Classics book. However, our fiends suggested that we try a better looking line on a different formation. And so in the morning, we hiked in for the latter which included some jungle bashing aided by a machete. Both the formation and the line did indeed look excellent (we could see the whole thing from camp) but the opening slab pitch featuring 2 bolts in its 85 meter made me tuck my tail and turn around. We hiked back down and over to the originally planned line. That latter one featured about 300 meters of 3rd to 4th class approach slabs followed by 300 more meters of slab climbing. The rock was black and in full sunshine making for some fairly toasty climbing conditions. We climbed as two teams, the two of us followed by Adilio and Igor. The climbing was straightforward but the summit views were outstanding. We’d come back to the area. That night we enjoyed a sweet barbecue courtesy of Didi.

Photos

Pancas
Setting out for our chosen climb in the morning. Plantation owner, Fabinho, is leading the way (May 2026).
Pancas
Such a cool place (May 2026).
Pancas
Adilio and Igor making good use of a machete we borrowed from Fabinho (May 2026).
Pancas
Welcome to the jungle, baby!
Pancas
Adilio looking for the start of his route.  I did not like the look of the runout first pitch and we backed off (May 2026).
Pancas
Coffee on Fabinho’s plantation (May 2026).
Pancas
Shirley starting the approach to to our plan B climb…which was actually originally our plan A (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Below the the third class slabs (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
On the approach hike (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Shirley starting the slabs (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Pedra da Cara is on the left (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Gave Shirley a running belay as there were bolted rap stations every 60 meters or so (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Need to cross over the gully to get to the climb (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
The formations of Pancas (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Views of Pancas from the approach hike. We were baking in the sun on the black slabs (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Arriving at point level with the start of the route. Just need to cross over a gully (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Starting up the first pitch of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Looking back towards Shirley, Igor, and Adilio from the lead of pitch 1 of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Nearing the first belay (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Views from pitch 1 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
At the first belay. Photo by Igor (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley starting pitch 1 of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Views from pitch 1 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
More of Shirley on pitch 1 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Leading pitch 2 of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Higher on pitch 2 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Views (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Pitch 2 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley nearing the second belay (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Leading pitch 3 of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Looking back at Igor and Adilio a pitch below us (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Higher on pitch 3 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Pitch 3 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley starting pitch 3 of Face Oculta (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Views from the third belay (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley on pitch 3 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Pitch 3 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
The views getting more spectacular (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Home to a classic chimney route. Looks absolutely out of this world (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Leading pitch 4 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley on pitch 4 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Topping out on pitch 4 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Looking the other way (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley on pitch 5 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley topping out on pitch 5 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Adilio and Igor atop pitch 5 (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Adilio nearing the summit of Pedra da Cara.  It’s just a class 3 hike from top of route to the summit (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley on the summit of Pedra da Cara (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Summit register (May 2026).
Face Oculta
A highly zoomed in view of a church from the summit (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Igor third classing above Face Oculta to the summit of Pedra da Cara (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Wankers on the summit of Pedra da Cara (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Looking towards the town of Pancas down there in the valley (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
And looking down the valley in the opposite direction (May 2026).
Pedra da Cara
Igor, Adilio, and Shirley on the summit (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Starting the rappels (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley nearing the base of the route (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Shirley in the gully early in the descent hike/scramble (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Just a wee bit of a belay for Shirley on the way down. Just sketchy enough (May 2026).
Face Oculta
Off the hot slabs finally (May 2026).
Pancas
Post climb pack session. A really nice place to camp (May 2026).
Pancas
Back in camp, we had some visitors (May 2026).
Pancas
Shirley enjoying our awesome cabin (May 2026).

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Go back to Brazil II.