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Summary
Shirley hiking at the base of the south face of Prusik Peak after our climb of the Stanley-Hamburger (III 5.9+) route.
Stanley-Burgner (III 5.9+) route on the south face of Prusik Peak is a great line! Having climbed the West Ridge in a car-to-car fashion in 2002, we came back in June of 2006 for this one armed with an overnight permit. A Saturday approach and a full value Sunday with the climb & the hike out. I recall that somehow we did not bring enough food with us and were quite hungry most of that weekened. Beyond that, it was a very fun route and somehow I really enjoyed the flaring 5.9 chimney…in fact, I recall that more than the highly praised final crack pitch. Go figure.
Photo Essay
Snow Creek Wall seen from the approach hike to Prusik Peak (Snow Lakes Trail; June 2006).
View photo at full res. for best results. Stanley-Burgner route (III 5.9+) on south face of Prusik Peak. Indicated belays are per Nelson and Potterfield guidebook. Route indicated by a blue line only where it's not obvious. As shown, pitches 1 and 2; and 3 and 4 link easily with a 60 meter rope (highlighted with hollow circles marking belays). Pitch 5 can be broken up by belaying atop the indicated chockstone. P5 to P5' indicated moving the belay along the large (exposed) ledge. Rappels done down the opposite (north) face followed by hiking around the west/left ridge. Photo taken June 24, 2006.
An Enchantments resident paying us a visit in camp at Lake Vivian (June 2006).
Campsites near Lake Vivian allow a nice preview of the Stanley-Burgner route - can you see the chockstone? Boxtop is the next formation to the right along Temple Ridge. Shirley's modeling the always in-fashion shorts-over-polypro (spring 2006 collection). Photo taken June 24, 2006.
Shirley getting ready for some zzz's in our Lake Viviane camp (June 2006).
Shirley hiking up to the start of Stanley-Burgner on Sunday morning. Partially melted out Lake Vivian is below (June 2006).
Starting up pitch 1 of Stanely-Burgner on Prusik Peak's south face (June 2006).
Leading the nice 5.8 OW crack on pitch 1 of Stanley-Burgner route. The flaring chimney (~4 pitches up) can be seen directly above the last tree (June 25, 2006).
Knob traverse on pitch 3 (our P2) of Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik Peak (June 25, 2006).
Shirley following the wide groove of pitch 4 (our pitch 2) of Stanley-Burgner route on south face of Prusik. Lake Viviane is below; McClellan Peak is in the background (June 25, 2006).
Shirley tunneling behind the chockstone on pitch 5 of Stanley-Burgner route. It's not that bad of a squeeze - I could pass with my helmet on though I did jettison the rack below (June 25, 2006).
Happy Shirley at a belay just above the chockstone tunnel (June 2006).
Leading the fun 5.9 flaring squeeze chimney on pitch 5 of Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik Peak (June 25, 2006).
Leading the flaring chimney on pitch 5 of Prusik Peak's Stanley-Burgner route (June 2006).
Shirley nearing the top of the 5.9 flare chimney on pitch 5 of Stanley-Burgner route on south face of Prusik Peak. This was actually quite fun IMHO (good pro helps in making it fun). Lake Viviane is below; McClellan Peak is in the background (June 25, 2006).
Shirley in the squeeze section of the flaring squeeze chimney of pitch 5 of Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik. Lake Viviane is below (our two bivy sacks - yellow and red - can be just barely seen above upper/left corner of the lake). Photo taken June 25, 2006.
Shirley nearing the top of the pitch 5 chimney on Stanley-Burgner route (June 2006).
Shirley on the 4th class ledges at the base of the 6th pitch of Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik's south face (June 2006).
Starting up the money pitch of Stanley-Burgner (pitch 6; June 2006).
Leading the sixth and crux pitch of Stanley-Burgner route (III 5.9+) on south face of Prusik. I think the climbing looks more aesthetic than it actually is (grunt). Photo taken June 25, 2006.
Crux section of pitch 6 of Stanley-Burgner on south face of Prusik. I ran out of the right sized gear and nearly browned by undies running it out on tipped out cams (June 25, 2006).
Shirley staring up the final pitch of Stanley-Burgner (June 2006).
Shirley nearing the top of the Stanley-Burgner route on the south face of Prusik Peak. This is (roughly) the 6th and the crux (5.9+) pitch (June 25, 2006).
Shirley topping out on the summit of Prusik Peak (June 2006).
Daddy on the summit of Prusik Peak after our climb of Stanley-Burgner. Little Annapurna (I think) is in the background (June 2006).
Shirley on summit of Prusik Peak after our climb of Stanley-Burgner route. This is looking roughly east. Rest of Temple Ridge is in the background starting with Boxtop (near background) and including The High Priest (further back). Shields Lake is below. Dean and Derek have contributed information that went into this caption (June 25, 2006).
Shirley hiking back up to the pass after rapping off the north face of Prusik Peak (June 2006).
Shirley at the pass hiking back to our camp after rapping off the north face of Prusik Peak (June 2006).
Shirley hiking at the base of the south face of Prusik Peak after our climb of the Stanley-Hamburger (III 5.9+) route. Most of that route (P2 which starts at trees on left and upwards) are visible in shot (June 2006)
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