A Day Of Broughton Multi-Pitch

Summary

Shirley nearing the end of the traverse on pitch 2 of Hanging Gardens Route. A bit mossy, eh (March 26, 2006)?

On March 26, 2006, Shirley and I climbed two “multi-pitch” lines on the Hanging Gardens Wall at Broughton Bluff. The first was the 3-pitch (no pitch longer than 40 feet) Loose Block Overhang (5.9). Fun climbing in some clean cracks with a very short crux on pitch 2. The second line was the 4-pitch (…and a total of 120 feet of climbing 🙂 ) Hanging Gardens Route (5.10a, with the grade being set by a single, wet move…else 5.6). A pretty good day out at this suburban crag.

Photos

Loose Block Overhang

Shirley taping up for the Loose Block Overhang (5.9) route - a Broughton classic multi-pitch (March 2006).

Looking up at Loose Block Overhang (5.9) from base. About 2 of its 3 very short pitches are visible with pitch 1 (the way we did it) passing both triangular roofs on the right (March 2006).

Leading the first mini-pitch of Loose Block Overhang (5.9) on Hanging Gardens Wall & relying on the backward unclipping of a cam from the rack method 🙂 . Short but fun hands to OW crack (March 26, 2006).

Nearing the top of the mini pitch 1 of Loose Block Overhang (5.9; March 2006).

Looking down towards Shirley belaying me on pitch 1 of Loose Block Overhang (5.9; March 26, 2006).

Shirley on pitch 1 of Loose Block Overhang (March 26, 2006).

Starting up another mini-pitch (number 2) of Loose Block Overhang. This was the crux I think but (atypically of Broughton) not hard for the grade (March 26, 2006).

Shirley topping out on the second (crux) mini-pitch of Loose Block Overhang route (5.9 line on Hanging Gardens Wall; March 26, 2006).

Shirley atop pitch 2 of Loose Block Overhang...we must be like 70 feet above the ground at this point...when will this grade VI end?!!

Starting up the third (5.8) pitch of Loose Block Overhang (March 26, 2006).

Shirley starting up the third and final pitch of Loose Block Overhang (March 26, 2006).

Hanging Gardens

Starting up pitch 1 of Hanging Gardens (5.10a, one move) route on the wall by the same name (March 26, 2006).

Shirley following the short pitch 1 of Hanging Gardens route (March 26, 2006).

Leading mini-pitch 2 of Hanging Gardens Route. This little maple seems to be growing straight out of the basalt (hence "Hanging Gardens" I suppose...; March 26, 2006).

Shirley belaying me on the short pitch 2 of Hanging Gardens (March 2006).

Shirley nearing the end of the traverse on pitch 2 of Hanging Gardens Route. A bit mossy, eh (March 26, 2006)?

Starting pitch 3 of Hanging Gardens route (March 26, 2006).

A quick look-see around the corner to check out the only 10a move of the route (which happened to be running with water) - mini-pitch 4 of Hanging Gardens Route (March 26, 2006).

Blondie abusing a stick at the base of Hanging Gardens Wall at Broughton (March 2006).

Shirley hiking out all tired and stuff after two serious multi-pitch routes at Broughton (March 2006).

Somebody loves the soft serve ice cream from the mom&pop shop in Cascade Locks...a Gorge tradition for us (March 2006).

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